Spina sits above Ampeli Beach on Folegandros, one of the smaller islands in the Cyclades. Carved into the rock face and built from local stone, the villa took almost a decade to create. The founders liken it to a boat resting on the sea. Each evening, the kitchen transforms local produce and seafood into a tasting menu. Ampeli Beach, a small, secluded cove just below, is reached by a short footpath.
The Proprietors
Matteo Serri, photographer and founder of Studio Vetusta, first came to Folegandros years ago, later returning with an idea to build a retreat. His guiding principle was that nothing should be forced. Serri partnered with Alessandro Pagnoni, a chef who trained at Italy’s Franceschetta 58, a seasonally driven restaurant rooted in the bounty of Emilia-Romagna. The pair found the land at Ampeli and reached it by sea with the help of a local fisherman. It was entirely wild and exactly what they were searching for.
The Setting
Folegandros spans just 12 square miles and is home to fewer than 800 residents. A single road runs along its windbeaten limestone spine. From Chora, the route follows the clifftops toward Ampeli before giving way to the hotel’s steep, rust-colored dirt path that drops sharply toward the water. As you descend, the Aegean Sea fills your view. The surrounding landscape features dry terraces and low scrub, while the property’s design is inspired by early Aegean boats, with each room opening onto a terrace that overlooks the sea. Ampeli Beach, one of the island’s more secluded coves, is rarely crowded, even during the peak of summer. Access to Folegandros is generally via Santorini, with a ferry ride that typically lasts less than 2 hours on a high-speed catamaran.
When
Spina operates from May to October, with August being the busiest month as ferry service increases and the island fills up. Folegandros can handle the high season better than most Cycladic islands, and Spina remains insulated from mass tourism. May, June, and September offer quieter experiences with more availability. The meltemi wind, strongest in July and August, makes hot days more manageable.
The Crowd
Spina attracts discerning guests who appreciate thoughtful design, local materials, and spaces that harmonize with the environment. Visitors are primarily well-traveled Europeans and Americans who seek out the island rather than stumble upon it. Guests come to disconnect and experience nature in its purest forms, surrendering to rocks, wind, and sea.
The Rooms
There are only five suites on the property, and they are all designed simply to encourage outdoor living. Most face the sea (one overlooks the kitchen garden), and all feature outdoor showers and Aesop products. The smallest suite, Fos, has the largest terrace. With its added privacy, it’s perfect for couples. Thal, which is closest to the water and offers more space, is best for a slightly larger group. Accommodations lack air conditioning, but the cross breeze keeps the spaces relatively cool, even under August’s scorching sun.
The Service
The service is personalized rather than standard, thanks to a high staff-to-guest ratio. During a recent visit, a team member took us by boat to a nearby taverna where we enjoyed freshly caught lionfish—an invasive species featured on local menus. It was a notable experience that unfolded spontaneously. Boat trips from Ampeli can be organized to explore secluded beaches and coastlines around the island.
The Food & Drink
The restaurant is a true osteria, led by chef Alessandro Pagnoni. It combines Italian techniques with Cycladic ingredients, relying on the kitchen garden and daily deliveries from the ferry and local fishermen. The property’s Land Rover—fiercely protected by Spino, the hotel’s wire-haired dachshund—is a familiar sight around Chora as it collects ingredients for dinner.
