The tiny island of Sifnos often yields the spotlight to its more frequented neighbors in the Cyclades, like Santorini or Mykonos. Yet for years, epicures have descended upon its pebble beaches in search of a good meal–or rather, an exceptional one. Over the past decade, Sifnos has earned a reputation as the culinary capital of the Greek Islands.
Some attribute this to Nikos Tselementes, Greece’s first celebrity chef, who earned his native island international exposure and culinary world cache with his 1926 cookbook Greek Grocery. While his cookbook has been criticized for fusing Greek staples with French culinary traditions—locals argue his only contribution to Greek cuisine is moussaka—it was he who shined a light on Sifnos’s thriving food scene and rich heritage; but while Tselementes certainly helped put Sifnos on the map, its culinary roots had always been there; in this case, they were in the soil.
The Sifnos soil, a red clay rich in argil and metals, has been used to make pottery since the Early Cycladic period, helping evolve local cuisine at a time when other Greek islands were cooking over an open fire. Since Sifnian clay can withstand high temperatures, large pots and cooking vessels became the means through which the island’s traditional slow-cooking stews and casseroles were invented. Revithada (traditional chickpea stew), which is baked in a skepastaria pot and left in the oven overnight, and mastelo, oven-roast lamb with wine and dill that’s baked in an earthen pot, are typical dishes. Today, there are up to eighteen potter’s workshops in Sifnos, preserving the tradition of their ancestors, which are open to visitors.
The island is as dedicated to slow-cooking as it is to slow living. Its charms—which include stone paths through mazes of cubic white homes, churches with blue cupolas, and a wild coastline dotted with hidden swimming coves–remain spared from the tourist hum. “The development of tourism follows the rhythm of the island,” says Isidora Chandeli, co-owner of the Verina Astra hotel, along with her husband. “The island primarily attracts people who are travelers, not tourists.” Proof lies in the property, which speaks harmoniously to its Aegean setting; framed by the church of Poulati, the cliffside oasis is comprised of fourteen stone villas, each with its own private terrace, and an infinity pool. The owners and their laid-back staff serve as local guides to help unlock the charms of their majestic island. Here’s a guide to get you started.
Where to Eat + Drink
Omega3
Tucked discreetly along Sifnos’s busiest beach, Platis Gialos—known for its long stretch of white sand lined with restaurants—lies Omega3, an unpretentious fish bar whose high top stools and communal tables seat the likes of Jeff Bezos and Tom Hanks, dining alongside the island’s barefoot, shirtless locals. All dishes–like the semi-cured amberjack bathed in dashi brown butter and semi-dried smoked tomatoes, or red shrimp ceviche doused in avocado mousse–are served on small plates and meant to be shared.
Cantina
Last summer, molecular biologist-turned-chef Giorgos Samoilis left his nine-year post at Omega3 to open Cantina. The restaurant is situated below the ancient hilltop town of Kastro, in the tiny cove of Seralia—arguably the most stunning bay in all of Sifnos, though with no car access and a 99-step entrance, the road to get there is not easy. As Samoilis says, “This acts like a filter; for whoever decides to walk down the steps has already taken a conscious decision to visit Cantina.” Cantina looks like it came straight from the rocks; in fact, Samoilis instructed the architect not to touch anything surrounding it. The result is a rustic haven within ancient xerolithies, traditional stone walls built without cement between stones. The decor is made up simply of overhanging rocks and wild greens, many finding their way onto Cantina’s menus, which change daily. The changing menus are part of Samoilis’s no-waste initiative. As a result, most ingredients come from Sifnos, with bread baked in a wood-fire oven, organic vegetables, ethically-caught fish, and cage-free meat. “And we use every part of them.” You’ll definitely have to book in advance.
Bostani Restaurant & Bar
Also new to the scene is Bostani, operated by the team at Verina Astra, where fine dining is found in a casual atmosphere by the hotel. While most of the vegetables are from their own bostani, or garden, the experience here is more than just farm-to-table. Nikos Thomas, a renowned chef of the Athens restaurant Simul uses innovative techniques to re-introduce traditional flavors. Take the the beef carpaccio with kumquat and smoked herring eggs, or the chickpeas with veal marrow and crayfish—an inspired take on Sifnos’s beloved revithada.
Theodorou
For something sweet, head to Theodorou in Artemona, a family-run confectionery that has been selling traditional baked goods to locals and visitors alike for nearly a century. Inside, blue shelves are lined with the Cycladic’s beloved sweets, like amygdalota (soft almond sugar cookies), pastelli (sticky honey and sesame bars traditionally eaten at special events, like weddings or baptisms), and tubs of ypovrichio (a vanilla spoon sweet), surrounded by the scent of bergamot and rose water. While packaged and ready to buy, all Theodorou’s treats are made from scratch using large copper pots over a wood fire.
