By late afternoon in St. Anton, Austria, schlager anthems are booming across the slopes, Jäger shots are flowing, and skiers are dancing on tables. Meanwhile, in Italy’s Cortina, a Loro Piana-clad crowd settles in for aperitivo, while in Switzerland’s Gstaad, Sprinter vans begin rolling up to discreet members-only clubs.
Snow conditions, terrain, and scenery influence where skiers go in the Alps, but the après scene is arguably just as important. Not everyone wants glitzy bottle service, just as some wouldn't dream of calling it a night after the last run.
But beyond the bars and the ruckus into the wee hours, there's a cultural dimension to après, with its cheese-laden regional dishes, soul-warming spirits, and ambitious chefs putting their stamp on Alpine cooking. These destinations show just how varied the post-piste experience can be.
The Swiss Alpine town of Andermatt in winter
An après-ski bar
The Palace Hotel in Gstaad, Switzerland
A ski lift in Lech, Austria
From left: A Bombardino, a traditional Italian ski-slope drink
Skis lined up outside an Alpine chalet
The Swiss Alpine town of Andermatt in winter
An après-ski bar
The Palace Hotel in Gstaad, Switzerland
A ski lift in Lech, Austria
From left: A Bombardino, a traditional Italian ski-slope drink
Skis lined up outside an Alpine chalet
For the Gadabout: St. Anton and Lech, Austria
In Ski Arlberg, Austria’s largest interconnected ski area, you can plot your day according to your après allegiance. At MooserWirt in St. Anton, beer flows so freely the bar is rumored to serve the most suds per square foot in the country. The resident DJ starts spinning at 3:30, and inhibitions drop shortly after. (Stash your skis safely before joining the party: Mix-ups are common during the exodus after last call.)
The Aussie crowd tends to congregate at Krazy Kanguruh, St. Anton’s oldest après-ski bar, also on the final run back to town. Owned by an Olympic slalom champion, it got a retractable glass roof last year on its terrace, plus a new upstairs sushi and teppanyaki eatery. For something more traditional, order the käsespätzle, a stick-to-your-ribs skillet of egg noodles, cheese, and crispy onion. Arl One, the newest option on ski run No. 50 (aka the “home run”), is the sister restaurant, already earning buzz for its massive stage and costumed dancers.
Over the mountain in Lech, the après scene is more restrained. At Arlberg Club House, you can settle in for spiny lobster and martinis, browse Austrian Mühlbauer hats and cashmere from Iris von Arnim, and wander downstairs to Margo’s for drinks and dancing.
