When Lulu Peyraud passed away on October 7, two months shy of her 103rd birthday, wine lovers around the world honored her with bottles from Domaine Tempier, the Provençal winery that she and her husband oversaw for over 50 years. In the U.S., perhaps no more tears (or glasses of Tempier rosé) were spilled than at Chez Panisse.
Alice Waters was introduced to Peyraud by the legendary food writer Richard Olney just a few years after her Berkeley restaurant opened in the early 70s, and, as Waters recalls, it was love at first sight, watching this chicly dressed force of nature cook a generous yet simple meal from the kitchen fireplace that had served everyone who visited the vineyard for decades.
Over the ensuing 40-plus years, Waters sent out countless bottles of Tempier’s distinctively nuanced Bandol rosé and inky mourvèdre to welcome VIP’s. It is no underestimation to say that having Waters’ stamp of approval on Lulu’s melon-hued wine helped set the rosé juggernaut in motion. The relationship between the two diminutive, powerful and passionate women was its own juggernaut. Peyraud’s way of cooking — and living — profoundly inspired Waters at home and in her restaurant, thereby informing the tastes of generations of cooks.
Waters recently shared her candid memories of her mentor and friend, including the essential life lessons she gleaned. If there’s one thing we can all learn from Lulu Peyraud, it is this: There is always more room at the table.
Tell me about the first time you met Lulu.
I believe it was three or four years after we opened Chez Panisse, around 1974. Richard Olney took me to the domaine. Needless to say, it was love at first sight — and really, right up to the end. I saw her a year ago; I was staying at her house with her daughter, who had been taking care of her — in such a beautiful way — for the past 10 years. So I got a good look at what everyday life was for Lulu. I wanted to know how she can live so long and with so much good spirit. I wanted to know every detail. So I observed, carefully. And she always had a smile on her face. She always believed that whoever she was talking with was the most important person.
I tried to think of what was really, really special about her, because of all of the obituaries that are being written, and that quality of giving people your complete attention — complete! So much so that if you had met her, you would have thought she was your best friend! But people felt that; they felt very connected. And she always wanted to know about them and their work, and was so thrilled by that kind of conversation, whether it was with Jim Harrison or a grandchild. She had the same focus and amusement and curiosity. That's pretty unique, I think, in people. And I think that's why she traveled around the world and she got to know so many people that they wanted to come back and see her again.
What was it about her approach to life that struck you?
