Its bustling medinas and awe-inspiring monuments evoke romance at the doorstep of the sweeping Saharan desert.

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Explore Egypt: Bespoke Trips to Egypt | PRIOR

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From Cairo’s lively streets pulsing with modern energy beneath ancient pyramids, to the timeless beauty of the Nile and the hushed grandeur of Luxor’s temples, Egypt invites travelers into a vivid mosaic of history and hospitality. Wander bustling bazaars fragrant with spices, sail past palms and papyrus, and uncover a land where myth and monument merge seamlessly in the sands of time.

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It was nearly a year in the making: after a few Covid delays, childcare fumbles and a lost passport, I finally had the chance to travel to Egypt with three childhood friends. We were embarking on Meroe, one of the dahabiyas, or traditional Nile river boats, in the Nour El Nil fleet, that hosts passengers on a five-day cruise up the Nile, from the southern city of Luxor down to Aswan. I had seen enough images on my Instagram feed of the company’s flotilla of red and white sails billowing along the Nile over the last 18 months (Egyptology seems to be having a moment— last year marked the centennial of Howard Carter’s opening of King Tutankhamun’s tomb and the massive Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza, which will hold over 100,000 artifacts, will finally open later in 2023.). I almost felt I had already been. But even for this seasoned traveler, the trip left me, in a word, gobsmacked.    

My friends decided to head over to Cairo a day earlier to see the Pyramids (they arrived by 8 a.m. to beat the crowds), so I met up with them after in Luxor. My slightly type-A, check- every-box New Yorker anxiety over missing out was soothed by a large ceramic floral plate and striped caftan my friends brought me from [Madu](https://priorworld.com/editorial/made-in-cairo), an incredibly chic homeware shop in Cairo, as a consolation prize. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5iuhCB0JM6ve2BbIOBFvXw/8a69005918cf54916184d82c4ec6e16d/3.4.23_egypt_body_1_.jpg"/><figcaption>A statue at the Horus Temple in Edfu, The Pyramids at Giza, A scene from Karnak Temple</figcaption></figure>

Thankfully, Luxor, essentially is a city as sprawling open-air museum, easily made up for any remaining FOMO angst with its motherlode of ancient Egyptian antiquities. The main sight on the East Bank is the many temples of Karnak, while the West Bank is home to the Valley of the Kings, where Tutankhamen and other pharaohs were buried, and Valley of the Queens, the necropolis for royal wives and children. For our first day, we decided to focus on the Karnak complex dedicated to the ancient sun God Amun Re. Built over 2,000 years ago, each subsequent pharaoh added their own flourish to the vast mix of chapels and pylons. The complex, about the size of ten cathedrals in total, was an easy way to spend the day, ambling among the kiosks, obelisks and causeway of columns.   

In order to limit the number of people entering (apparently all that tourist breathing can do major damage to the wall paintings), only some of the tombs in the Valley of the Kings are open at any given time.  It’s worth paying extra (just a few dollars, really) to visit the tombs of Seti I and Ramesses VI, which are some of the largest and filled with ornate, colorful scenes and symbols depicting ancient texts from the Book of Dead and the Litany of Ra. I was expecting just to catch glimpses of random fragments from these ancient sites, but the walls of each artifact were so vivid and intact it was as if they were painted yesterday. It’s sad to think that much of the treasures that once filled these tombs have been pilfered and now sit from their original grounds in museums around the world. But in many ways, it feels even more sacred to be able to still see what has been left in situ. The Temple of Dendur at the Metropolitan Museum of Art back home will never feel the same to me.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/1TSevMVZc4BdlmkwoR8Ixc/8101678c146007b527c02f81df2c8d33/3.4.23_egypt_body_2.jpg"/><figcaption>Hieroglyphics at the Temple of Khnum at Esna, Pilars decorated with lotus flowers, Pharaonic life </figcaption></figure>

Over in the Valley of the Queens, the tomb of Queen Nefertari, the wife of Ramesses II (or Ramesses the Great, if you will) is not to be missed. Most notably, it's the only one here not shrouded in glass. We arrived just a few minutes before the closing time of 4 p.m, which meant we had to bribe — gently — the entrance guard to allow us in. I promised I’d buy a mini sarcophagus as a gift for my 7-year-old from his friend’s kiosk on the way out. We paid the equivalent of about 50 U.S. dollars per ticket for about ten minutes in the tomb. We half-jokingly debated limiting the number of times we exhaled around the extant monuments to human history, but in truth the walls depicting chapters from the Book of the Dead, which show how the beloved Nefertari transforms into a bird in the afterlife, left us speechless. I had to stop myself from reaching out to touch this ancient wallpaper of hieroglyphics. Such a staggering display of human artistic achievement can almost make you lose your museum manners.

It was almost dusk when we arrived at Hatshepsut, a mortuary temple built by Pharaoh Hatshepsut, one of Egypt’s only female rules, who reigned for two peaceful and prosperous decades. The 3500-year-old temple is carved into the bottom of rugged limestone cliffs, most of what visitors see has been painstakingly reconstructed since it was discovered in 1891.  We were informed by our guide that the following night there was going to be a massive dance rave with different D.J.s at this very site. (That explained why my Air Cairo flight to Luxor was filled with club kids in Yeezy-style sneakers.) Typically, I would roll my eyes at the made-for-TikTok EDM vibes. Would they appreciate what stood before them? But as the sun set on this elegant temple built into the escarpment, I couldn’t think of a more mythical place to dance the night away.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/1XPmQ5qzX1aZhqVerjYeEc/dbb8c3891eba499e39590a1fefd8833c/3.4.23_egypt_body_3_.jpg"/><figcaption>Scenes from Al Moudira: The hotel shop, The property's lush entrance, The dining room at the new villa</figcaption></figure>

After sightseeing, we retired to the oasis of courtyards and lush gardens at [Al Moudira Hotel](https://www.moudira.com/en/home-en/). The property is expanding and will soon have a private villa decorated in Egyptian antiques, (complete with a private plunge pool) and enough landscaped outdoor areas to include a running path on the grounds. The hotel’s gift shop is essentially a satellite wing of Madu, the Cairo store run by Margarita Andrade. The shop employs local women and teaches embroidery skills to refugees, so it is stocked with  colorful textiles, handmade scarves, Malaika linens and ceramics made by artists from the Fayoum oasis in the south. While most of the hotel’s guests, including my group, spend two nights at the Al Moudira before heading off to boat down the Nile, I suggest tacking on an extra day just to soak up the hotel’s quiet splendor.

In the morning, we made a stop at Edfu, where we saw the Temple of Horus, a wonderfully well-preserved shrine that was built during the reign of Nectanebo II, from 360 to 343 B.C.  We next climbed aboard the Meroe, one of the seven boats in our [Nour el Nil](https://www.nourelnil.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA0oagBhDHARIsAI-BbgcaGglopJ0VJo5Z5QRdcfavhJVzXq6LQ6wQLT4zUYjsC7PaBfArAq8aAgQ7EALw_wcB) fleet. (The newest one, Roman, features solar power.) Once aboard, we cheered with glasses of hibiscus juice before making our way up the Nile. The cabin felt much more spacious than what I had gathered from looking at the images online. This was even more of a blessing since our bags were overflowing with souvenirs already. I was already trying to figure out if I could buy the wire-and-rope chair in my room, which looked straight out of Marni’s market collection. Next time, I’m renting a container for a bigger haul back. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/6Xnvn9UlqhdoMFJzcJUPrZ/987c599742a52b0c097cfbe029eb4856/3.4.23_egypt_body_4.jpg"/><figcaption>Scene from the Nile, A woven chair in one of the Nour el Nil's cabins, One of the members of the delightful crew</figcaption></figure>

Up on deck, the river unfurled in front of us, leaving palm groves, farmers, water buffaloes and the occasional minaret in its wake. On the Nile, you quickly find a rhythm that is slower-paced than the one at home. Mornings consisted of trips to temples, like Kom Ombo and the Crocodile Museum, followed by a communal lunch on top. Alla, who cut an elegant figure in his jellabiya and was the boat’s charming head of our crew, would often repeat his mantra: “Swim in the Nile. Return to the Nile. Drink the Nile. Die in Egypt.” A few brave souls did, in fact, take a dip in the river. Our fleet of boats, which felt more and more like a floating community, would often stop at the same time, so the other guests soon became our co-conspirators. One morning an American couple on another boat jumped into the Nile one morning without any fear of the water’s temperature. I asked from above if it was too cold. “We’re from Chicago,” they told me with a shrug.

Afternoons were for relaxing, which, for several of us, consisted of reading the Agatha Christie classic *Death on the Nile* (When in Rome…) or chatting with fellow passengers. The pandemic meant that I couldn’t remember the last time I felt at ease enough to unwind with maskless strangers and actually engage in interesting conversation. Besides the friends I came with, our new deckmates included a lovely family from England, a husband-and-wife couple, who arrived with their very spry mother and their precocious 11 year-old daughter. They had rebooked this trip for two years because of Covid restrictions. There was one American couple, who now live in Valencia, Spain, and another set of Americans who had retired to San Miguel Allende but had met up with old friends from Colorado on the boat. Everyone was well-traveled, but for all of us, the excitement about being on the Nile, a place that felt epic and bigger than any of us, was palpable. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/4sh4tXCKf0pNi8kuWNei9Z/6e45623acee72ab49269a27c30346681/3.4.23_egypt_body_5.jpg"/><figcaption>The Philae Temple in Aswan, Paintings in the tomb of Ramesses the Great, The Karnak Temple</figcaption></figure>

By the fifth day, I was more than happy to stay on board, spotting kingfishers and waiting for the next soul-stirring call to prayer. I was happy to be by myself after so much chit chatting at every meal on the boat. Besides, Mohammed, one of the crew members, happened to be an excellent barista, and was always at the ready with my late afternoon cappuccino. 
I discovered I had the upper deck to myself as most of the guests had hopped over to another boat to makeshift shop. It was almost sunset and relaxed on the floor cushions into a dream state on the Nile. Alla spotted me. “Don’t be lazy, be crazy,” he fake scolded me. 

He signaled to me to come with him and a few guests for a walk on the small island where we had docked for the night. We walked through a fertile patchwork of farms and sugarcane fields, past cows and donkeys, past a village. We finally arrived at the beginning of a sandy desert. I felt like I was in a Merchant Ivory film. I felt like I was at the end of the earth or the beginning of something. Alla looked at me to see if I approved of the spectacular setting in front of me. It was getting windy. I pulled my scarf over my head and nodded yes. 


3.4.23 egypt HERO

3.4.23 egypt INDEX

Join us on an awe-inspiring journey through Egypt, from Luxor to Aswan, aboard a traditional Nile riverboat. Explore ancient temples, tombs, and the timeless beauty of the Nile.

Life on the Nile: A Transformative Journey Through Egypt | PRIOR

From temples to tombs to a lingering boat ride up this mythical river, a trip to Egypt proves to be totally transportive. 

Life on the Nile

For Sydney-based designer and author Sibella Court, overseas travel is an essential part of running a multifaceted design empire which has defined a sought-after style in Australia this past decade. Through her interior design and publishing arm, an online store, and consultancy service her aesthetic —as rural Australian as it is new Bohemian, revering the past and embracing other cultures—can be seen in private residences, hotels and cafes from Sydney to New South Wales. 

As she sets off, often at a moment’s notice to countries including Japan, India and The Galapagos, she returns to The Society, her company and studio, with a fully documented trip, bringing back newly-forged relationships with craftsmen and artisans, and objects and curios for The Imaginarium, her personal library. This is often the starting point for projects, which she parlays into interior designs, books and paint shades (a recent collaborated with an Australian paint brand was inspired by a trip to the South of France).

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/oc8dxvhvd87u/59BR6pkFXB4vv2o65ZU72C/8adf3300e17e008ad63b85d97753aa20/24.jpg"/></figure>

As travel feeds her ideas, they in turn inform her work. Here she shares her most recent trip to Egypt where she took in Egypt’s ancient tombs and temples, mosques and museums, while sailing down the Nile.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/oc8dxvhvd87u/4TsWmIPgzaIOeYiiixP2QY/684759c2c2236378e225ed1147334358/Sibella_1_14_12_18.png"/><figcaption>Captions below in order from left to right</figcaption></figure>

*Tomb of Idut, Sakkara*

My favourite tomb or House of Eternity depicting the everyday life of Egyptians. The river scenes of the Nile's fauna & flora, fishing and activities depicted in a form of lime plaster frescos.

*Watercolours, on the Nile*

Capturing the essence of what I see, a travelogue of watercolours.

*Al Refaie Mosque, Cairo*

“The once oil-lit lamps dangling from vast lengths of chain from the soaring ancient structure of the mosque. Unfortunately, what you can’t hear is the call to prayer in the background.”

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/oc8dxvhvd87u/2mleF9FXDrNh2zDV386K1c/a4ef6bf0489b842fbd74e2225a211bdf/Sibella_2_16_20_27.png"/><figcaption>Captions below in order from left to right</figcaption></figure>

*Pyramids of Giza, Cairo*

The sheer size and manpower to build these monuments is nothing short of a miracle and so very, very powerful.

*Hotel Al Moudira, Luxor*

A boutique hotel, with a path of tiles that magically lead you from rooms, through gardens to pools and inner courtyards with the soundscape of trickling water and birdsong. An oasis in the desert, curated with eclectic layers & textures of a designer’s eye.

*Sileh Ancient Sandstone Quarry*

An ancient sandstone quarry that functioned from 2000BC - 1906 and supplied the building blocks for the Egyptian temples & pyramids. You get a real sense of how The Nile was used to transport these massive pieces to their final resting place, and these mind-blowing feats of early engineering and man power.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/oc8dxvhvd87u/64sJOur0Rfamt1CR7DPRGk/65fc32046f33e065e9018e31c1ae10f0/Sibella_3_31_6_32.png"/><figcaption>Captions below in order from left to right</figcaption></figure>

*Egyptian Museum, Cairo*

The most haphazard, loveable, chaotic collection of artefacts—more Cabinet of Curiosity in its display than a modern-day museum. A pink, purpose-built museum in central Cairo that feels as if the likes of Howard Carter (British archaeologist who discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun) had just dropped his loot off & it is yet to find its spot for display. Full of theatre and magic.

*Howard Carter Museum, entrance to The Valley of The Kings, Luxor*

A quiet space to explore and understand an exciting time of discovery that captured the imagination of all nations. To live at this close proximity to the Valley of the Kings must have been magnetic.


*Kom Ombo Temple, dedicated to the crocodile-headed god, Sobek*

The early morning light at Kom Ombo admiring the intricate depictions of gods and hieroglyphics as well as symbols of early medical equipment.

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Sibella

Join Sydney-based designer and author Sibella Court on her recent journey to Egypt, where she immersed herself in the country's rich history, architecture, and culture. Discover how Sibella's travels fuel her creative projects, from interior designs to books and paint shades, as she shares her captivating experiences amidst Egypt's ancient tombs, temples, and more. Dive into the world of inspiration that Egypt has to offer through the eyes of a renowned designer.

Sibella Court's Creative Odyssey: Exploring Egypt's Ancient Inspirations

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For the Australian stylist a PRIOR trip to Egypt proves a sensory journey, rich in “theatre and magic.” 

Egypt Through The Lens of Sibella Court

Cairo is a teeming city that enlivens all the senses, sometimes all at once.  Many visitors come to Cairo for just a few days and with a set plan to visit the historic sites before heading off to Giza and beyond. This is unfortunate because it leaves little time for the many pleasures the city offers— from the busy street culture to the vibrant cafe society to the languid life along the Nile. Cairo is also home to various smalls shops and studios where artisans make some of the most exquisite treasures—some techniques dating back centuries.

PRIOR asked Margarita Andrade, who moved to Cairo from Ecuador in 2004 to start Mailaka Linens, a luxury embroidered bedding company, to guide us to the city's best shops— from the old world bazaar to the stylish streets of Zamalek, a neighborhood west of the city. Indeed, Andrade warns that the city is hectic. “Even crossing the street is complicated, but you learn to let go,” says Andrade. “It makes one more creative here.” This energy has allowed Andrade to expand her business, with a shop in Zamalek (see below) and Thread of Hope, her social enterprise which trains and employs disadvantaged Egyptian women and refugees in the embroidery. Here she opens up her address book to Cairo's hidden treasures. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/6RHbjmm4vtdHBTK4kyePn0/0a9e2547ec46f94c015fee1f343d45d8/Cairo_Shopping1.jpg"/><figcaption>Embroidery detail and tentmaking stalls, photos throughout by Mohamed Sherif</figcaption></figure>

### Street of Tentmakers
Located in the city’s last medieval quarters, the street of tentmakers is where artisans once stitched together colorful appliqué panels into tents and pavilions for traditional ceremonies. These days the narrow strip is packed with workers hand sewingfabrics into banners, cushion covers, and bags as well as tents that locals still use for weddings and funerals. Many of the patterns are inspired by scenes of Pharaonic art, folklore and traditional Islamic text. 
*Sharia Al Khayamiyya*

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5gHwaRYlGnx5Ng8PXrU8JU/7af481057bb2b7441e92ff78d782f330/Cairo_Shopping3.jpg"/><figcaption>Embroidery, linens, and ceramics at Madu Cairo</figcaption></figure>

### Madu Cairo
[Margarita Andrade’s shop](https://www.instagram.com/madu_cairo/?hl=en) in Zamalek, showcases Malaika's elegant embroidered linens as well as a large selection of textiles, many of them printed with handmade dyes using antique printing blocks which are sourced from places like Afghanistan, Turkey and India. There’s also handmade ceramics from the nearby Fayoum oasis. Madu, a Pharaonic word that means “Of The People,” also sells crafts from across the globe— including Ugandan woven baskets, silk and velvet ikat from Uzbekistan, and line scarves from Bengal— sourced directly from the people who make them.
*20 El Mansour Mohammed*

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/4s7pQmZpf6JgJ6QHtdA2l9/18d0c1b9944105aca74b7ec862aa5cfd/Cairo_Shopping4.jpg"/><figcaption>Interior and merchant at Zaki Boutros</figcaption></figure>

### Zaki Boutros
[This silver shop](https://www.zakiboutros.com) located in the famed Khan El Khalili Bazaar, in the city’s historic center, was founded in 1936 by two brothers Zaki and Helmy, and today is run by fourth generation family members. “These silversmiths went to the best school in Egypt so the quality is high,” says Andrade. The tiny space is filled with sterling silver objects— serving platters, ashtrays, figurines, goblets, even curiosities like an antique telephone. Each piece is guaranteed with a government stamp so you know you are buying the real thing. There is also jewelry featuring handmade pendants and bracelets. 
*6 Rbaa Al Selhdar* 

### Lehnert & Landrock
[This bookshop](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lehnert_%26_Landrock),near Tahrir Square, started out as a studio by two German photographers in 1924, who created hand-tinted images of North African monuments as well as the region's civic life. Today, it sells more than just books— although bibliophiles can find works on everything from cooking to travel to fiction in various languages.There are vintage prints and postcards depicting scenes of Egypt and North Africa in the early twentieth century, which make for ideal souvenirs.
*36 Abdel Khaleq Tharwat* 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/2IV0xYJvQmX3Ug03J9oiSZ/4ab6185f8c53ade38727d487c57a0eb1/Cairo_Shopping2.jpg"/><figcaption>Bookbinders of Azhar in process</figcaption></figure>

### Abdelzahers Atelier
Hidden behind Al-Azhar Mosque, on a street filled with Quran sellers and butcher’s shops, is Abdelzaher’s bookbinding atelier. This is  Cairo’s last traditional book binder (run by the two brothers these days) and is popular with tourists. And there is good reason. Here you can buy beautiful leather-bound notebooks and photo albums for very reasonable prices. They will even inscribe your purchases with initials in gold letters. 
*31 Muhammad Abdou* 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/Lbd5uA6BTs2iRDAz2cXba/57c6dd152b8e06d5b6de08a6754b43fd/Cairo_Shopping5.jpg"/><figcaption>Various glassware</figcaption></figure>

### Tahf Al-Sham
This glass blowing shop, located in the Khan EL Khalili Bazaar, next to Naguib Mahfouz Coffee, has been selling wares for forty years. “I love the work here because they make it in the old style,” says Andrade. “It’s got these beautiful colors and the glass is thick. The shapes can be irregular, imperfect. It’s so Egypt.” 
*8 Al Makwa Agency* 

### Alef Gallery
Located in Zamalek, [this elegant art and design gallery](http://alefgallery.com), is treasure trove of sumptuous designs, founded by Naguiba Meyassar and her daughter Louila Damerji, who studied decorative arts in Paris. Their designs are inspired by the multitude  of civilizations— Coptic, Arabic, Turkish, Persian, Pharaonic and Mediterranean— that have influenced Egyptian culture. To that end, the duo have enlisted a team of highly-skilled artisans including glassblowers, carpenters and textile workers who craft their wares for clients like Christian Loubutin and the Al Moudira hotel in Luxor. 
*14 Mohammed Anis* 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/7ph1uI8hegWCEoYzmYZNDS/bdff8691633d41af15c8ba9cfaceb0d2/Cairo_Shopping6.jpg"/><figcaption>Handmade ceramics at Fayoum Oasis</figcaption></figure>

### Fayoum Oasis

About an hour south of Cairo, between the Nile and the Quaran lake, the Fayoum Oasis is known as the center of the country’s ceramic making. While most of the wares from the area are more utilitarian in nature— oversized urns and simple water jars made for the outdoors, the town of Tunis produces a more refined style of pottery. In the 1990’s, a Swiss couple moved here and established a ceramics school where they taught locals (many of them young women) how to make decorative pieces for the home. Tunis is now known for its elegant plates, pots and figurines decorated with animal and floral motifs in a subtle palette of green, blues and browns. There are many small studios and workshops where you can purchase these pieces.

### Tintera Gallery

The foremost contemporary photography gallery in Cairo, this historic destination has a wonderful secret bookstore in the back, filled with an interesting selection of art books. The gallery's mission is to spotlight both contemporary and historical Egyptian photography through a series of exhibitions, events, and research projects.

Wondering what to do in Cairo, Egypt? Explore hidden shops and studios like the Fayoum Oasis to discover breathtaking art and wares.

Cairo Shopping hero

Mohamed Sherif

Cairo Shopping index

Cairo local Margarita Andrade offers her picks for the hidden shops and galleries that make the city come alive. 

What To Do in Cairo, Egypt - Art in the Streets | Prior

In this city of millions, with a history just as dense, navigating the chaotic streets is no easy task. PRIOR asked local designer and entrepreneur Margarita Andrade to reveal the hidden shops and studios—from the old world bazaars to the manicured streets of Zamalek— where highly-skilled artisans make beautiful objects and wares much like they did centuries ago. 

Egypt

Explore Egypt

Life on the Nile

Egypt Through The Lens of Sibella Court

Made in Cairo

Oh... and also

See the uniquely Moroccan art deco villas, theaters, hotels and churches of downtown Casablanca’s boulevards and plazas.

Spend the night in a fully serviced tent pitched among dunes beneath the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.

Celebrate the year’s harvest at the Morocco Rose Festival in El Kelaa M’Gouna, the “Valley of Roses,” and stay in a 200-year-old kasbah.

Egypt