Cairo is a teeming city that enlivens all the senses, sometimes all at once. Many visitors come to Cairo for just a few days and with a set plan to visit the historic sites before heading off to Giza and beyond. This is unfortunate because it leaves little time for the many pleasures the city offers— from the busy street culture to the vibrant cafe society to the languid life along the Nile. Cairo is also home to various smalls shops and studios where artisans make some of the most exquisite treasures—some techniques dating back centuries.
PRIOR asked Margarita Andrade, who moved to Cairo from Ecuador in 2004 to start Mailaka Linens, a luxury embroidered bedding company, to guide us to the city's best shops— from the old world bazaar to the stylish streets of Zamalek, a neighborhood west of the city. Indeed, Andrade warns that the city is hectic. “Even crossing the street is complicated, but you learn to let go,” says Andrade. “It makes one more creative here.” This energy has allowed Andrade to expand her business, with a shop in Zamalek (see below) and Thread of Hope, her social enterprise which trains and employs disadvantaged Egyptian women and refugees in the embroidery. Here she opens up her address book to Cairo's hidden treasures.
Street of Tentmakers
Located in the city’s last medieval quarters, the street of tentmakers is where artisans once stitched together colorful appliqué panels into tents and pavilions for traditional ceremonies. These days the narrow strip is packed with workers hand sewingfabrics into banners, cushion covers, and bags as well as tents that locals still use for weddings and funerals. Many of the patterns are inspired by scenes of Pharaonic art, folklore and traditional Islamic text. Sharia Al Khayamiyya
Madu Cairo
Margarita Andrade’s shop in Zamalek, showcases Malaika's elegant embroidered linens as well as a large selection of textiles, many of them printed with handmade dyes using antique printing blocks which are sourced from places like Afghanistan, Turkey and India. There’s also handmade ceramics from the nearby Fayoum oasis. Madu, a Pharaonic word that means “Of The People,” also sells crafts from across the globe— including Ugandan woven baskets, silk and velvet ikat from Uzbekistan, and line scarves from Bengal— sourced directly from the people who make them. 20 El Mansour Mohammed
Zaki Boutros
This silver shop located in the famed Khan El Khalili Bazaar, in the city’s historic center, was founded in 1936 by two brothers Zaki and Helmy, and today is run by fourth generation family members. “These silversmiths went to the best school in Egypt so the quality is high,” says Andrade. The tiny space is filled with sterling silver objects— serving platters, ashtrays, figurines, goblets, even curiosities like an antique telephone. Each piece is guaranteed with a government stamp so you know you are buying the real thing. There is also jewelry featuring handmade pendants and bracelets. 6 Rbaa Al Selhdar
Lehnert & Landrock
This bookshop,near Tahrir Square, started out as a studio by two German photographers in 1924, who created hand-tinted images of North African monuments as well as the region's civic life. Today, it sells more than just books— although bibliophiles can find works on everything from cooking to travel to fiction in various languages.There are vintage prints and postcards depicting scenes of Egypt and North Africa in the early twentieth century, which make for ideal souvenirs. 36 Abdel Khaleq Tharwat
Abdelzahers Atelier
Hidden behind Al-Azhar Mosque, on a street filled with Quran sellers and butcher’s shops, is Abdelzaher’s bookbinding atelier. This is Cairo’s last traditional book binder (run by the two brothers these days) and is popular with tourists. And there is good reason. Here you can buy beautiful leather-bound notebooks and photo albums for very reasonable prices. They will even inscribe your purchases with initials in gold letters. 31 Muhammad Abdou
Tahf Al-Sham
This glass blowing shop, located in the Khan EL Khalili Bazaar, next to Naguib Mahfouz Coffee, has been selling wares for forty years. “I love the work here because they make it in the old style,” says Andrade. “It’s got these beautiful colors and the glass is thick. The shapes can be irregular, imperfect. It’s so Egypt.” 8 Al Makwa Agency
