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It’s becoming harder to find a corner of the French Riviera that still feels spared from overtourism. Marseille can occasionally fill that role, its rough edges and vibrant energy offering a counterpoint to the resorts farther east. But tucked along the Var coast, Hyères still evokes that slow, old-world atmosphere through its palm-lined boulevards, historical villas, and handsomely restored hotels.

Hyères’ true charm has always rested in its landscape—outdoor cafes, a medieval town center, and miles of unspoiled coastline—and it’s beginning to attract visitors who might have otherwise headed straight for Saint-Tropez. A revitalized cultural scene and a fresh crop of boutique hotels surround Villa Noailles, a modernist art center set on a hill overlooking the town.

Split image showing a modern white Villa Noailles surrounded by greenery on the left, and a geometric multicolored tiled garden terrace with planted sections on the right. — Courtesy Villa Noailles

Hyères may be gaining fresh attention, but the town has always been a hideaway for artists, botanists, and well-traveled aesthetes. In the 19th century, its mild winters attracted figures like Robert Louis Stevenson and Queen Victoria. That noble legacy endures in the gardens and villas that dot the hillsides above the bay. Known as la ville des palmiers (the city of palm trees), Hyères was once a leading exporter of palms.

But the town isn’t all mansions and manicured gardens: The medieval village dates back to the 11th century, and the town square, Place Massillon, is distinguished by Tour des Templiers, a tower that was once part of a Knights Templar commandery. Cafes at its base bustle with locals gathering for coffee and afternoon pastis. From there, cobbled lanes wind upward between castle ruins and stone houses draped in bougainvillea, leading past Romanesque churches and to Place Saint-Paul, another historic square from which the glittering bay below comes into focus.

Panoramic view over a coastal Mediterranean town of Hyères with terracotta rooftops, rolling green hills, cypress trees, and a clear blue sky. — The rooftops of Hyères

As you climb, the landscape begins to reveal what makes this corner of the French Riviera so distinct: the Giens Peninsula, a narrow stretch of land jutting into the Mediterranean that faces Port-Cros National Park. Its salt marshes and wild coastline are some of the most pristine in Southern France. From both Hyères’ mainland and the peninsula, ferries provide a short crossing to the Îles d’Or, known for their rugged cliffs, diverse marine life, and well-kept hiking trails.

Hyères is tucked into a precious part of the French Riviera that still lives up to the fantasy. Here’s your guide to making the most of it.

Where to Stay

Until recently, Hyères was better for day trips—hotels were functional but not particularly enticing. That, however, is changing.

Split image featuring a warm neutral-toned dining room with sculptural wooden chairs on the left, and an elegant cream-colored living room with a fireplace and soft furnishings on the right within hotel Lilou. — Courtesy Hotel Lilou

Lilou brought a long-overdue aesthetic touch to central Hyères when it opened in 2024. Occupying a classic Haussmann building and reimagined inside by Haddou Dufourcq studio, the 37-room hotel feels like a private townhouse. After a day at the beach, you might take a dip in the pool, settle in for a meal at the Mediterranean restaurant, or sip a drink at the bar’s striking poplar burl counter, where guests and locals mingle over wines from small regional producers and nibbles like bouillabaisse croquettes and chickpea fritters with toum (Lebanese garlic sauce).