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The French Riviera invokes an eternal summer and remains the stomping ground for any true bon vivant. The Provence Alps and aquamarine Mediterranean Sea create a haven for artists, gourmands, and superyachts alike. Between the Cannes Film Festival and the parade of stars who have rubbed elbows here — everyone from Brigitte Bardot to F. Scott Fitzgerald have made their mark on its pebbled shores and cliffside villas, sipping Bandol and sharing a grand aïoli platter — the region has become synonymous with summertime glamour. In fact, it was practically invented here.

The French Riviera invokes an eternal summer and remains the stomping ground for any true bon vivant.

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A Rare Quiet Corner of the French Riviera

In Hyères, newly revived seaside hotels sit beside Romanesque churches, flamingo-filled salt marshes, and stretches of scrubby coastline.

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Only in French Riviera

The unique curiosities that make the French Riviera tick. 

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From film stars (Jack Nicholson, Brigitte Bardot) and artists (Pablo Picasso) to Paris’s fashion set (Inès de la Fressange, Kenzo Takada), the raw simplicity of this former fishing tavern has attracted a glamorous roster of guests over the years. Set in a quiet harbor in the center of Saint-Tropez, La Ponche is steeped in history and remains a family business to this day, run by Simone Duckstein, whose parents opened it in 1938. Composed of an assemblage of characterful village houses, many of the rooms and suites have sea views, which left a lasting impression on Françoise Sagan, who wrote of living here: “I got up from my bed, I opened the shutters, and the sea and the sky threw in my face the same blue, the same pink, the same happiness.” The restaurant menu, designed by chef Thomas Danigo, offers Provençal fare made with local ingredients, and the rocky beach just a moment’s walk from the hotel makes up for there being no swimming pool.

Hôtel la Ponche, Saint-Tropez

From film stars (Jack Nicholson, Brigitte Bardot) and artists (Pablo Picasso) to Paris’s fashion set (Inès de la Fressange, Kenzo Takada), the raw simplicity of this former fishing tavern has attracted a glamorous roster of guests over the years.

Hôtel la Ponche

White French doors and a palm tree mark the discreet entrance to this 18th-century former residence, which was a favorite of Orson Welles, Rita Hayworth, and Greta Garbo. It was transformed into a hotel after World War II by Philippe Tallien, an antiques dealer and former dancer with Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo, and was fully renovated in 2017. The interiors by Monica Damonte (the designer behind Francis Ford Coppola’s Palazzo Margherita in southern Italy) incorporate Rubelli fabrics, Frette linens, Hermès cushions, and Andrea Martin sofas; there’s also a museum-worthy collection of Ado Chale and Gio Ponti furniture. Set around a lush Mediterranean garden and pool, Le Yaca stands at the foot of the Saint-Tropez Citadel, which is now a maritime museum.

Le Yaca, Saint-Tropez

White French doors and a palm tree mark the discreet entrance to this 18th-century former residence, which was a favorite of Orson Welles, Rita Hayworth, and Greta Garbo.

Le Yaca

All 34 rooms of the Hôtel Lou Pinet have been designed to feel like a home away from home and come with their own personal accents like elegant handmade tapestry headboards and custom glazed ceramic lamps by Paris-based designer and architect Charles Zana. Each room has its own private garden, and many feature a double exposure, so they are flooded with natural light. The Michelin-starred Beefbar restaurant from chef Riccardo Giraudi offers the finest cuts of meat — from American Black Angus Prime and Australian Wagyu to certified Japanese Kobe beef — as well as lighter Mediterranean-inspired cuisine, including carpaccio and grilled fish. Work off your previous night’s indulgences at the hotel’s spa, complete with a full menu of treatments using Tata Harper organic skincare, a gym, a hammam, and morning yoga taught en plein air.

Hôtel Lou Pinet, Saint-Tropez

All 34 rooms of the Hôtel Lou Pinet have been designed to feel like a home away from home and come with their own personal accents like elegant handmade tapestry headboards and custom glazed ceramic lamps by Paris-based designer and architect Charles Zana.

Hôtel Lou Pinet

Few hotels can lay claim to having a clay tennis court tested by a seven-time Grand Slam champion — just one of the unique attractions of the Épi members club, of which John McEnroe is a founding member. Situated on Pampelonne, the longest beach in Saint-Tropez, the 10 cabana-style rooms look out onto the hotel’s two pools and hark back to the golden age of the Côte d’Azur with their vintage furniture, whitewashed walls, and monochrome prints. American landscape designer Madison Cox, of Jardin Majorelle fame and beyond, has planted a Provençal garden abundant with cypress trees, lavender, hydrangeas, and lilies. American designer Thom Browne opened a boutique — his first in France — on the premises last summer.

Épi Baie de Pampelonne, Saint-Tropez

Few hotels can lay claim to having a clay tennis court tested by a seven-time Grand Slam champion — just one of the unique attractions of the Épi members club, of which John McEnroe is a founding member.

Épi Baie de Pampelonne

For more than a century, this landmark on Nice’s Promenade des Anglais has attracted the kind of names one might dream up for a fantasy dinner party: Salvador Dalí, Princess Grace of Monaco, Louis Armstrong, and Elton John have all stayed here. Taking its own name from founder Henri Negresco, the hotel has an impressive art collection that includes sculptures by Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Niki de Saint Phalle, and even one of Hyacinthe Rigaud’s famous portraits of Louis XIV (the other two canvases are on display at the Louvre and Versailles). The exhibition continues through the 128 guest rooms, from the Butterfly junior suite, with its Art Deco Isabelle Planté headboard, to the Marie Antoinette suite, with its Sèvres vases and Tassinari & Chatel silks, to the gold-hued Angel suite, which has 180-degree views of Nice.

Le Negresco, Nice

For more than a century, this landmark on Nice’s Promenade des Anglais has attracted the kind of names one might dream up for a fantasy dinner party: Salvador Dalí, Princess Grace of Monaco, Louis Armstrong, and Elton John have all stayed here.

Le Negresco

Crowning a cliff top and flanked by the Esterel Massif and the Mediterranean Sea between Nice and Cannes, Tiara Yaktsa is aptly named. While the distinctly Provençal scent of pine trees perfumes the air, the hotel has a Moroccan theme running throughout, complete with hanging lanterns, inlaid furniture, sumptuous textiles, and riad-style doors. A tiered garden leads to the infinity pool and a terrace dotted with Balinese beds that boast sweeping views of creeks on the Corniche d’Or. The Michelin-starred L’Or Bleu restaurant offers a smorgasbord of gourmet dishes such as blinis noisette — composed of layers of artichoke and black truffle — and roasted red mullet with zucchini flowers. If you fancy a change of scenery, hop on the buggy service to sister property Miramar Beach Hôtel & Spa, with its own private stretch of sand, tennis court, and spa.

Hôtel Tiara Yaktsa Côte d'Azur, Théoule-sur-Mer

Crowning a cliff top and flanked by the Esterel Massif and the Mediterranean Sea between Nice and Cannes, Tiara Yaktsa is aptly named.

Hôtel Tiara Yaktsa Côte d'Azur

Since opening its doors earlier this year, Belle Plage has introduced contemporary design codes to the medieval neighborhood of Le Suquet. Raphael Navot — the designer behind David Lynch’s Silencio nightclub in Paris — and FAAR architecture studio renovated the 1930s building to create a calming environment of fluid lines and neutral hues. In addition to the 45 rooms and suites, the hotel has eight two-bedroom apartments with open-plan kitchens and lounge areas, making them ideal for groups and families. Organic-shaped furniture, wood, stone, and plasterwork are complemented by textured linens and woven rugs. The soon-to-open spa will offer Watsu and a menu of fully customizable treatments using pioneering products from the likes of Alaena and Cellcosmet.

Hôtel Belle Plage, Cannes

Since opening its doors earlier this year, Belle Plage has introduced contemporary design codes to the medieval neighborhood of Le Suquet.

Hôtel Belle Plage

Renowned French industrial designer Philippe Starck was inspired by the Hanging Gardens of Babylon when designing the Provençal abbey-style architecture of Lily of the Valley, which with its lush foliage feels as though it has been reclaimed by nature. This year-round wellness sanctuary, just a 30-minute drive from Saint-Tropez, comprises two steam rooms, a snow shower, a hammam, an 82-foot swimming pool, seven treatment rooms with Biologique Recherche and Esthederm products, and a restaurant with extensive vegan and vegetarian options. Perched on top of a hill with sea views, the property is surrounded by nature reserves and is a moment’s walk from Gigaro beach. All 38 rooms, which vary in size, have marble bathrooms and spacious terraces. 

Lily of the Valley, La Croix-Valmer

Renowned French industrial designer Philippe Starck was inspired by the Hanging Gardens of Babylon when designing the Provençal abbey-style architecture of Lily of the Valley, which with its lush foliage feels as though it has been reclaimed by nature.

Lily of the Valley

Equidistant between Saint-Tropez and Cannes, this Moorish-style villa is a sanctuary on the Route de la Corniche, nestled amid lush grounds with towering, century-old pine trees. There are two swimming pools, a private sandy beach, and a raft of water-sports equipment at guests’ disposal, including kayaks, diving equipment, and paddleboards, with yacht hires and waterskiing available on request. The terrace of Le Bougainvillier restaurant has sweeping views over the bay and serves fresh fish caught in front of the hotel, with a constantly evolving menu to reflect the best seasonal produce. All of the rooms are named after well-known French writers and artists, and some come with four-poster beds and their own private hot tub.

La Villa Mauresque, Saint-Raphaël

Equidistant between Saint-Tropez and Cannes, this Moorish-style villa is a sanctuary on the Route de la Corniche, nestled amid lush grounds with towering, century-old pine trees.

La Villa Mauresque

A saltwater swimming pool ensconced in the rocks and so close to the sea that the waves leap over its edge, Les Roches Rouges’ centerpiece is straight from a Slim Aarons photograph. A bridge connects the two bodies of water, and for more avid athletes, there is a 100-foot-long heated swimming lane. Stand-up paddleboards and kayaks are also available, and there’s a ladder into the sea off the jetty for swimming. Located on the edge of Esterel National Park, the hotel is backed by a scented garden of tamarisk, rosemary, mimosas, and thyme. Originally built as a motel in the 1950s, today this über-stylish 47-room hotel is living out its second life furnished in Charlotte Perriand, George Nakashima, and Guy Bareff, with midcentury finds sourced by antiques dealers Benjamin Desprez and Hélène Breheret.

Les Roches Rouges, Saint-Raphaël

A saltwater swimming pool ensconced in the rocks and so close to the sea that the waves leap over its edge, Les Roches Rouges’ centerpiece is straight from a Slim Aarons photograph.

Les Roches Rouges

In the 100 years since first opening its doors, this family-run auberge has become the stuff of legend. Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Fernand Léger, and Jean Cocteau are among the many notable artists who stayed here and were invited to leave artworks in lieu of payment, which are now scattered unceremoniously throughout the property. The 25 rooms are low-key, with a boho-baronial vibe of canopied beds, lace duvets, and faded Persian rugs. Alexander Calder and Henri Matisse sculptures are positioned around the swimming pool and tree-veiled courtyard, and the restaurant has served the same menu of Provençal dishes for the past four decades. The simple yet effective recipe continues into the decor of the rooms, with their whitewashed walls and terra-cotta tile floors, which act as a neutral backdrop for the art.

La Colombe d’Or, Saint-Paul-de-Vence

In the 100 years since first opening its doors, this family-run auberge has become the stuff of legend. Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Fernand Léger, and Jean Cocteau are among the many notable artists who stayed here and were invited to leave artworks in lieu of payment, which are now scattered unceremoniously throughout the property.

La Colombe d’Or

Originally built as a château for the Knights Templar more than 800 years ago, this 34-acre retreat on a hilltop in the commune of Vence looks out over rolling olive groves down to the Côte d’Azur. Guests can wander through the property’s lush landscaping, play a round of tennis, or take a dip in the pool before treating themselves to the spa, which is in collaboration with La Prairie. Le Saint-Martin restaurant, headed up by chef Jean-Luc Lefrançois, offers a vegan menu and sources fruit and vegetables from its own kitchen gardens as well as local producers. The largest villa has three private suites spread over two floors, with an open-plan kitchen and the option of a private chef. 

Château Saint-Martin & Spa, Vence

Originally built as a château for the Knights Templar more than 800 years ago, this 34-acre retreat on a hilltop in the commune of Vence looks out over rolling olive groves down to the Côte d’Azur.

Château Saint-Martin & Spa

Located halfway between Cannes and Grasse — an area known as the cradle of perfumery, thanks to its perfect flower-growing conditions — this 400-year-old bastide has been sensitively restored using traditional techniques. The Isadora suite is particularly tranquil, with its large private terrace complete with a gurgling fountain. Or for a truly unique stay, book the Romany caravan, which is hidden in the garden and has its own spa. To ensure you live in the moment, none of the rooms has a television. Breakfasts of seasonal fruit, breads, pastries, and eggs are all organic, and dinner is served by candlelight in the dining room, with dishes arranged on crockery handmade by a local ceramist. 

Les Rosées, Mougins

Located halfway between Cannes and Grasse — an area known as the cradle of perfumery, thanks to its perfect flower-growing conditions — this 400-year-old bastide has been sensitively restored using traditional techniques.

Les Rosées

Dating back to the 16th century, this hideaway, spread out over several townhouses, has had many lives over the years, including as a hospital and a church. Nestled within the ancient ramparts in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, this property is an ideal way to experience the picturesque village, especially once the hordes of visitors have dissipated at the end of the day. The suites have sweeping views over the Loup Valley, and some come with sculpted stone fireplaces and rolltop baths. Original Marc Chagall paintings hang on the silk-lined walls, public spaces are decorated with frescoes, and the vaulted-ceilinged restaurant opens up onto a terrace shrouded in bougainvillea.

Le Saint-Paul, Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Dating back to the 16th century, this hideaway, spread out over several townhouses, has had many lives over the years, including as a hospital and a church.

Le Saint-Paul

The epitome of understated luxury, Jean Cocteau — a regular visitor to Menton, which is now home to the poet and painter’s eponymous museum — served as inspiration for the decor of this hotel, and his fantastical illustrations adorn its walls. There is a solar-heated pool, gym, and fitness center, and although there is no restaurant, a menu of light meals is available via room service. Guest rooms are decorated in cool hues of blue, gray, and white and have the option of a sea or mountain view. Menton is the ideal launchpad for hopping across the Italian border, just a few minutes away, and the town’s botanical gardens are not to be missed. Several gastronomic delights wait to be discovered on the hotel’s doorstep, including the Michelin three-star Mirazur, where chef Mauro Colagreco designs daily menus based on biodynamic principles. 

Hôtel Napoléon, Menton

The epitome of understated luxury, Jean Cocteau — a regular visitor to Menton, which is now home to the poet and painter’s eponymous museum — served as inspiration for the decor of this hotel, and his fantastical illustrations adorn its walls.

Hôtel Napoléon

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When it comes to scents, the Riviera is an embarrassment of olfactory riches. 

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Overlooking one of the prettiest beaches in the south of France (the Plage du Layet, in the Cavalière district of Le Lavandou), this open-air sea-shack restaurant on a wooden pontoon serves excellent rock-lobster spaghetti and bouillabaisse from huge cork trays. Lunch here is an all-day event, with copious amounts of chilled rosé. Insider tip: Wear something dark, as the food is delicious but also quite messy. 

Chez Jo

Overlooking one of the prettiest beaches in the south of France (the Plage du Layet, in the Cavalière district of Le Lavandou), this open-air sea-shack restaurant on a wooden pontoon serves excellent rock-lobster spaghetti and bouillabaisse from huge cork trays.

This wine bar, with a list of more than 300 bottles, is ideal for lunch after a trip to the market in Antibes’ Old Town or maybe an early dinner after visiting the Picasso museum. The cooking here is proudly local and seasonal, with dishes like sea-bream crudo with cucumber and lemon; goat cheese, beet, and walnut salad; and risotto with ramps and baby peas. 

Jeanne

This wine bar, with a list of more than 300 bottles, is ideal for lunch after a trip to the market in Antibes’ Old Town or maybe an early dinner after visiting the Picasso museum.

Named for the large fig tree that provides shade over its patio terrace, this restaurant, located in a pretty house in Old Antibes, showcases the cooking of Christian Morisset, one of the region’s most respected chefs. Morisset, who works alongside his two sons in the kitchen, is a maestro with local produce, as seen in his excellent contemporary riffs on regional classics like a tatin of asparagus with hazelnuts and Alpilles lamb roasted with herbs. This is romantic and old-school dining at its best — with none of the stuffiness.

Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit

Named for the large fig tree that provides shade over its patio terrace, this restaurant, located in a pretty house in Old Antibes, showcases the cooking of Christian Morisset, one of the region’s most respected chefs.

These days, Cannes is as much a place for conducting business as it is a holiday destination, so it’s not always the easiest place to enjoy a good meal — which is probably why this unassuming spot is so popular. The small-plates chalkboard menu changes daily and features innovative dishes like smoked eggplant purée with fried chickpeas and lardo di Colonnata; veal tartare with clams, hazelnuts, lemon, and yogurt; and baby lamb chops with razor-shell clams, salsa verde, and potato croquettes.

Le Pompon

These days, Cannes is as much a place for conducting business as it is a holiday destination, so it’s not always the easiest place to enjoy a good meal — which is probably why this unassuming spot is so popular.

Chef Noël Mantel’s excellent southern French cooking has made his long-running spot one of the best in a town that is typically more obsessed with the buzziest, newest bistro. The modern dining room serves as a stylish backdrop for the classic, regional cuisine: lobster ravioli with leeks in shellfish sauce, and rack of lamb with thyme and cèpes. (Note: This is a preferred bolt-hole for celebrities looking for a low-key evening during the Cannes Film Festival.) 

Table 22 par Noël Mantel

Chef Noël Mantel’s excellent southern French cooking has made his long-running spot one of the best in a town that is typically more obsessed with the buzziest, newest bistro.

The seaside terrace of Juan-les-Pins’ Hôtel Belles Rives, the Art Deco mansion where F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald once lived, is one of the most picturesque dining spots in the region. Chef Aurélien Véquaud celebrates the local bounty with dishes like langoustines with glasswort and caviar and amberjack with purple artichokes and roasted tomatoes. If guests can peel themselves away from the idyllic setting, there’s always a nightcap readily available in the famed Fitzgerald piano bar.

La Passagère

The seaside terrace of Juan-les-Pins’ Hôtel Belles Rives, the Art Deco mansion where F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald once lived, is one of the most picturesque dining spots in the region.

This casual bistro in Nice offers modern Mediterranean fare courtesy of Moroccan-born chef Elmahdi Mobarik.

This casual bistro in Nice offers modern Mediterranean fare courtesy of Moroccan-born chef Elmahdi Mobarik.The chalkboard menu changes often but focuses on local Niçoise cooking, including peppers stuffed with suckling pig, roasted goat leg with green lentils, and a salad of poached seasonal fruit with prune sorbet. There’s also a wide-ranging selection of natural and organic wines, which sommelier and owner Sébastien Perinetti will happily talk guests through. 

Le Canon

Born on a remote farm in South Africa, chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen followed his passion for cooking to Europe and today runs his operation in a townhouse-like setting near Nice’s old port. Enjoy local dishes like bouillabaisse and porchetta as well as South African–inspired ones, including biltong-crusted lamb, bobotie (a ground beef casserole baked with eggs and raisins), and malva Bundt cake with whipped cream. 

Restaurant Jan

Born on a remote farm in South Africa, chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen followed his passion for cooking to Europe and today runs his operation in a townhouse-like setting near Nice’s old port.

Despite the wobbly tables and rush-bottomed chairs, La Merenda is one of the Riveria’s most celebrated restaurants. Dominique Le Stanc serves what may be the best Niçoise cooking in town — think petits farcis (stuffed baked baby vegetables), pâtes au pistou (house-made pesto pasta), and fried zucchini flowers, to name a few of the expertly prepared dishes. There is no phone, so reservations are accepted only in person.

Le Merenda

Despite the wobbly tables and rush-bottomed chairs, La Merenda is one of the Riveria’s most celebrated restaurants.

Operated by the same family since 1953, the kitchen at this sepia-toned bistro is today overseen by chef Pierre Altobelli, who prepares Niçoise home cooking just like his grandmother Davia once did, as well as his mother, Alda, but with his own contemporary flourish. The menu changes weekly but features staples like a fritto misto of local seafood, fish soup, Niçoise-style beef daube (stew), and lemon tart. 

Chez Davia

Operated by the same family since 1953, the kitchen at this sepia-toned bistro is today overseen by chef Pierre Altobelli, who prepares Niçoise home cooking just like his grandmother Davia once did, as well as his mother, Alda, but with his own contemporary flourish.

Trained by culinary titans like Michel Rostang, Alain Ducasse, and Jacques Maximin, chef Bruno Cirino today specializes in the dishes of the Côte d’Azur. His red prawns in Bellini sauce are reason alone to pay a visit to his charming auberge in La Turbie. Other signature dishes include roasted sea bass with zucchini-flower compote and lobster with truffles, peas, and macaroni. There’s an extensive wine cellar as well as a few rooms upstairs for guests who might want to sleep off their meal. Book a table on the balcony with views of the distant Mediterranean. 

L’Hostellerie Jérôme

Trained by culinary titans like Michel Rostang, Alain Ducasse, and Jacques Maximin, chef Bruno Cirino today specializes in the dishes of the Côte d’Azur.

This beach shack on the Plage du Buse in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin is one of those hidden gems that locals will share only if they happen to like you. The cooking is simple but succulent, with dishes like a warm salad of squid, zucchini, cherry tomatoes, and Parmesan; an epic fritto misto of shrimp and baby squid; and tagliolini with rock lobster. For dessert, try the chocolate lava cake or yuzu and ginger sorbet. 

Le Cabanon

This beach shack on the Plage du Buse in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin is one of those hidden gems that locals will share only if they happen to like you. 

Far from the coastal crowds, this countryside auberge in Valdeblore has become an insider favorite thanks to the superb cooking from a pair of Parisian chefs. Louis-Philippe Riel (formerly of Le 6 Paul Bert) and Alexis Bijaoui (formerly of L’Arpège and Garance in Paris) prepare many dishes from their on-site gardens. Enjoy mains like lamb shank and grilled lobster in a cozy dining room centered around a large stone fireplace. If the meal lingers on too long, guests can check in to one of the five stylish rooms here. 

Auberge de la Roche

Far from the coastal crowds, this countryside auberge in Valdeblore has become an insider favorite thanks to the superb cooking from a pair of Parisian chefs.

Artists like Picasso, Calder, and Cocteau traded their works of art in exchange for room and board at this storied inn in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which also served as the de facto hangout for actors like Simone Signoret and Yves Montand in the 1950s. It is a must for a languorous afternoon lunch. Order simply — crudités, grilled vegetables, terrine, rack of lamb, poached sea bass with a mousseline sauce. Afterward, walk off your meal by strolling the property and taking in the museum-worthy art collection. 

Artists like Picasso, Calder, and Cocteau traded their works of art in exchange for room and board at this storied inn in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, which also served as the de facto hangout for actors like Simone Signoret and Yves Montand in the 1950s.

For an over-the-top, special-occasion meal, book a table (well in advance) at this elegant pavilion on a hillside at the edge of Menton. Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco changes the menu at his Michelin three-star restaurant daily, sourcing ingredients from the gardens, orchards, chicken coops, and hives located right on the property as well as the nearby sea. Look for dishes like a clam on the half shell with leche de tigre, the spicy Peruvian sauce used to make ceviche, or a sublime pile of laser-thin ribbons of grilled squid with bagna cauda, the Piedmontese sauce made with garlic, anchovies, olive oil, and butter.

Mirazur

For an over-the-top, special-occasion meal, book a table (well in advance) at this elegant pavilion on a hillside at the edge of Menton. Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco changes the menu at his Michelin three-star restaurant daily, sourcing ingredients from the gardens, orchards, chicken coops, and hives located right on the property as well as the nearby sea.

Nearly a century old, this restaurant has seen it all, having been the favored boîte of stars like Chaplin and Garbo. The Saint-Tropez institution recently moved from the center of town to Château de la Messardière, part of the Airelles hotel group. Gaze out at the Bay of Pampelonne and enjoy regional, earthy classics like the grand aïoli (cod and vegetables with garlicky mayonnaise), tomato tatin, and a shoulder of lamb with marjoram confit.

Auberge des Maures

Nearly a century old, this restaurant has seen it all, having been the favored boîte of stars like Chaplin and Garbo.

On the pine-shaded terrace of Cheval Blanc St-Tropez, chef Arnaud Donckele prepares regional cuisine in a clever, modern manner, from the signature crackers that look like leaves to heartier dishes like a saddle of rabbit wrapped in bacon and showstoppers like lobster with caramelized shallots, chanterelles, and chestnut honey. 

La Vague d’Or

Many locals at this seafood spot, which opened in 1913 and is celebrated for its bouillabaisse, first came here with their grandparents. Newcomers will find the clubby atmosphere to be more charming than exclusive. Located right on the beach, families and groups of friends come here to tuck in to bowls of pasta with lobster, mussels, and just-caught fish of the day — and, of course, bouillabaisse. 

Chez Camille

Many locals at this seafood spot, which opened in 1913 and is celebrated for its bouillabaisse, first came here with their grandparents.

Located in the recently opened Maybourne Riviera hotel in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, chef Mauro Colagreco’s newest restaurant specializes in Mediterranean seafood and has spectacular crow’s-nest views of the sea.

Located in the recently opened Maybourne Riviera hotel in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, chef Mauro Colagreco’s newest restaurant specializes in Mediterranean seafood and has spectacular crow’s-nest views of the sea. The open kitchen, including a salt-lined aging room for fish, provides great theater for diners. Don’t miss the langoustine tartare and the swordfish with peaches and razor-shell clams.

Ceto

Tucked away in a narrow lane in Antibes, this vest-pocket bakery is run by Jean-Paul Veziano, whom Alain Ducasse describes as “one of the most inspired bakers.” For three generations, the Vezianos have used the same techniques and organic flours to produce the best pissaladière (traditional Provençal onion-topped bread) in the south of France. Buy a fresh slice to eat on the spot and load up on a few more for a handy beach snack. Also, don’t miss the thrillingly light and flaky croissants. 

Boulangerie Veziano

Tucked away in a narrow lane in Antibes, this vest-pocket bakery is run by Jean-Paul Veziano, whom Alain Ducasse describes as “one of the most inspired bakers.”

Since it opened in 1923, this kitchen in Nice has specialized in socca, the oversize chickpea-flour crêpe that’s cooked in a wood-fired oven. The pissaladière and tourte de blettes sucrée (a sweet tart filled with Swiss chard) also make for tasty snacks. (Insider tip: There is an outpost at the Nice airport for one final taste of the Riviera before you board.) 

Chez Pipo

Since it opened in 1923, this kitchen in Nice has specialized in socca, the oversize chickpea-flour crêpe that’s cooked in a wood-fired oven.

This Saint-Tropez institution, which opened in 1930, serves up (slightly overpriced) cocktails and great people-watching just across from the harbor where the megayachts dock. A longtime tourist favorite, the café is as famous for its bright red façade, chairs, and tables as it is for the tropézienne tarts they serve. Try the airy brioche topped with cream.

Le Sénéquier

This Saint-Tropez institution, which opened in 1930, serves up (slightly overpriced) cocktails and great people-watching just across from the harbor where the megayachts dock.

Chef Mauro Colagreco’s sustainable and almost entirely organic bakery in Menton, which opened in 2021, proved so popular that there’s now a stand at the Marché de la Condamine in Monaco. What makes these loaves so singular is that they’re baked with flour that’s traditionally milled from organic heirloom grains. For savory palates, there’s the classic cereal loaf or the fougasse, a flatbread sprinkled with lardons or olives. For something sweet, the panettone made with Menton lemons is a must.

Chef Mauro Colagreco’s sustainable and almost entirely organic bakery in Menton, which opened in 2021, proved so popular that there’s now a stand at the Marché de la Condamine in Monaco.

Mitron Bakery

The florid Baroque decor here might be overwhelming, but this deliciously old-fashioned confiserie is a delectable dowager, dating back to 1820. It showcases traditional French fruits confits (whole fruits preserved in sugar syrup), pâtes de fruits (dense, jammy fruit candies), and beautifully made chocolates. Not to be outdone, the packaging is gorgeous, so this is a great place to stock up on gifts to take back home.

Maison Auer

The florid Baroque decor here might be overwhelming, but this deliciously old-fashioned confiserie is a delectable dowager, dating back to 1820.

This ice cream parlor in Saint-Tropez was founded in 1988 by Harry Teneketzian, who also happens to be a professional race-car driver. The name Barbarac means “ice cream” in Armenian, an homage to Teneketzian’s heritage. Today the cult shop has five branches, including ones in Cannes and Saint-Raphaël. They serve more than four dozen flavors, including signatures like tarte tropézienne ice cream and blood orange sorbet. Classics like chocolate also come in vegan options.

Barbarac

This ice cream parlor in Saint-Tropez was founded in 1988 by Harry Teneketzian, who also happens to be a professional race-car driver.

There are branches of this tiny chain in Juan-les-Pins, Cannes, and Nice. The very friendly staff will let customers sample several flavors before scooping out favorites like bitter-orange sorbet and the signature Papilla ice cream, made with almonds, pistachio cream, and orange-flower water. Everything is made with real fruit, and there are several sugar-free selections.

Glacier Papilla

There are branches of this tiny chain in Juan-les-Pins, Cannes, and Nice.

After a leisurely meal at nearby La Colombe d’Or, treat yourself to a scoop or two at this very popular local glacier.

After a leisurely meal at nearby La Colombe d’Or, treat yourself to a scoop or two at this very popular local glacier. Signature flavors include classics like coffee ice cream and chocolate sorbet. They also make an expertly brewed coffee.

Dolce Italia

For three generations, the Ceneri family has been running one of France’s best cheese shops on a pedestrian street not far from the Marché Forville in Cannes. Among the 250 varieties, there is an impressive selection of Provençal goat cheeses. You’ll also find Corsican wheels and wedges that are rarely seen off the island. Choose from a wide-ranging selection of wines to wash it all down. 

Fromagerie Ceneri

For three generations, the Ceneri family has been running one of France’s best cheese shops on a pedestrian street not far from the Marché Forville in Cannes. Among the 250 varieties, there is an impressive selection of Provençal goat cheeses.

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Guides > French Riviera > Eat & Drink

Tips and tricks to know before you go. Nothing but the musts.