It was once said that Brisbane was a place you visited when on your way to somewhere else, perhaps en route to the alluring seaside beach towns that lie just south and north of the city. For decades Australia’s third city strived to position itself as a smaller version of its two more recognised counterparts—Sydney and Melbourne—looking outward in an attempt to emulate the successful southern formula rather than stand out uniquely. Fortunately, while policymakers spent time pondering the right commercial identity to push the city forward, local creatives, gastronomes, and placemaking visionaries continued to drive their own agendas, forming a parallel culture that is now setting and framing Brisbane.
The simultaneous birth of forward-thinking businesses and a unique genre of sub-tropical Queensland architecture has led to a reshaping of the way Brisbane is experienced—there are more open-air retail districts and outdoor restaurant options, breezeways, lush curbside gardens, and riverside activity, from transportation to walkways and pedestrian bridges that connect the ‘River City’. In addition, a burgeoning music industry, producing bands of international repute, is helping along the restorations of live performance spaces, visual artists are being recognized in major international collections, and local chefs are making the covers of national epicurean magazines.
Brisbane has found contentment and confidence and is earning back the title of its 1953 tourism campaign, the “City in the Sun”. Here’s where to see the city’s new horizons.
Where to Eat and Drink
Agnes Restaurant and Wine Bar
This secluded, contemporary Fortitude Valley restaurant is housed in an old brick warehouse and has a focus on wood-fired cooking. A glassed mezzanine for bar snacks and desserts provides a view of the kitchen and an open air but cosy terrace, and the bar list has an extensive offering of biodynamic and organic wines. 22 Agnes St, Fortitude Valley
SK Steak & Oyster
Robust in design and experience, this brutalist, Venetian-light-filtered take on a traditional grill room includes fresh seafood classics, local branded beef, and traditional sides—including a nine-option potato menu. It’s a place where guests settle into the semi-circle booths for long lunches on James Street. Crisply efficient staff in white jackets buzz from end to end, and a piano can be enjoyed on certain nights of the week. 48 James St, Fortitude Valley
Otto
Locals have embraced the change of venue for this Brisbane favourite from city high rise to waterside on the southside bank of the city’s iconic river. Head chef Will Cowper continues to serve a simple modern Italian menu of housemade pastas, local seafood, and fresh seasonal produce. Shop 1, River Quay, Sidon St
Maker
Nested under a South Brisbane railway overpass in the gentrified Fish Lane is this small hole in the wall bar that seats just 18 people. Great service and bar snacks (charcuterie, cheeses, and toasties too) are accompanied by an intelligent cocktail list which changes regularly. Maker’s proximity to the Performing Arts Centre makes it a great choice for a pre- or post-theatre drink. 9 Fish Lane, South Brisbane
Two Locals to Know in Brisbane Food:
Tyron Simon and Biànca Marchi are the creative couple behind some of the city’s most exciting new dining venues: Agnes, Biànca, sAme sAme, hôntô, LOS, and the soon to open Agnes Bakery. Originally from Milan, Biànca’s study trip to Brisbane became permanent when a part time job in Ty’s first restaurant connected the two, and their combination of passion for food and travel has redefined the city’s food. “People are migrating (or returning) to Brisbane and are bringing their vast skills and knowledge with them,” says Ty. His and Biànca’s restaurant suggestions: their “absolute favourite” for breakfast, Florence Café in Camp Hill, and Essa in James St. for champagne and oysters.
