Checking In & Checking Out: Vico Milano

With dramatic green marble walls, Gio Ponti furniture, and an art deco honor bar, this seven-room guest house in Milan is at once intimate and decadent, sophisticated and quintessentially Italian — exactly what you want when visiting Italy’s most stylish city. Its address, on one of Milan’s most famous and central streets, makes it the ideal base for exploring in this eternally chic town.

Category:Stays
Location:Italy
Words by:Monica Mendal
UpdatedJune 10, 2022

Neri Baccheschi Berti, son of hoteliers and designers Aurora and Carlo Baccheschi Berti of Castello Di Vicarello in Tuscany, has transformed his mother’s former showroom and studio into a seven-bedroom boutique guest house on Corso Genova, one of Milan’s most storied streets. For the project, Neri partnered with Sicilian architect Giuseppe Alito to create a discrete and intimate pied-à-terre in which green marble walls provide a luxe backdrop for Neri’s personal collection of antiques and contemporary art. Tucked inside an unassuming, low-rise building, Vico Milano manages to be both off-the-beaten path and central, making it the perfect launchpad for exploring Milan.

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Interior and facade courtesy of Vico Milano

The Check In:

Neri’s goal was for guests to feel like they’re being welcomed into their best friend’s home, and he succeeded; Vico Milano possesses all the hallmarks of an elegant Italian casa, complete with a curated library, handsome sitting room, and speakeasy-style bar where guests can whip up a Negroni at their leisure. The hotel is 25 minutes by car from Milan Linate, and a 45-minute drive from Milan Malpensa.

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Common spaces courtesy of Vico Milano

The Look:

Descending down the cement staircase to the common area, guests are immediately enveloped by warm jewel tones, velvet upholstered furniture, an art deco bar, and contemporary art, all dimly lit beneath FLOS light fixtures. The intimacy of the guest house is only heightened by Neri’s personal collection of photography, which hangs throughout the space, and the mismatched area rugs sourced from travels to Iran. While transportive, the space still celebrates the best of Italy with pieces like antique Lio Carminati rattan chairs and various Gio Ponti items.

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Rooms courtesy of Vico Milano

The Rooms:

Upstairs from the common spaces, the hotel’s seven bedrooms and duplex suites are minimal in contrast—”soft on the eyes and soul” is how Neri describes them. Ceramic planters frame the hargrove canopy beds fitted with white linens, while art is limited to a single black and white photograph or a wall tapestry from Indonesia. The bathrooms are lined with vivid red and green tiles from Fez and checkerboard floors. Milan is an elegant city after all, and the best hotels are the ones that speak indelibly of their location; other thoughtfully chic touch points, like the valet stands, monikered hangers, robes, and slippers, also aim to do just that.

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Navigli neighborhood, exterior of the Duomo, Milan city streets

The Neighborhood:

Situated just a few minutes north of the fashionable Navigli neighborhood and a twenty-minute walk south of the Duomo in Centro Storico, Vico Milano sits on one of Milan’s most famous— and central— streets. While it's just a stone’s throw away from Milan’s top attractions, its precise location is particularly unassuming, and that’s why it’s so singular. The hotel is wedged between Ticinese and San Vittore, where you stay if you want to live like a local. You won’t find throngs of tourists here; instead you’ll be surrounded by the city’s residents spilling out from their favorite restaurants, offbeat bars, chic galleries, and high-end shops at all hours of the day.

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Small bites and bar courtesy of Vico Milano

The Food & Drink:

While there is no restaurant on the property, it provides an idyllic setting for a light breakfast and a satisfying nightcap, which the property does exceptionally well. In the mornings, guests can enjoy an assortment of Italian cold cuts and pastries, paired with freshly squeezed juices and smoothies. Throughout the day and into the evenings, cocktails, beer, wine and small plates are available at the bar, which operates under an honor system. The wine is from Vico Milano’s sister property, Castello Di Vicarello in Tuscany, which is home to organically grown vineyards that produce several varieties of organic blends, including Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

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Interior courtesy of Villa Necchi Campiglio, interior courtesy of Buly 1803, restaurant interior courtesy of Da Giacomo

The Check Out:

Whether you’re having an aperitivo at UGO Cocktail Bar in the hip Navigli neighborhood or dinner at Trattoria Milanese, where you must go for the Vitello Tonnato and the Milanese, many of the best spots in the city are within a short walking distance from the hotel. During the day, don’t miss the nearby Six Gallery or the MUDEC, a resorted factory-turned-art and culture museum. While in Milan, it’s also worth trekking to Villa Necchi Campiglio and Studio Museo Achille Castiglioni for a more immersive look into the city’s cultural history, with a stop at Marchesi for a light snack in between. Head up to Da Giacomo for lunch, then to XingCha tea room if you need a break from espresso. Remember to stock up on leather goods and accessories at Pettinaroli before popping into Ramdane Touhami’s new Buly 1803 store next door. On your way back down to the hotel, pick up some vintage sunglasses at Foto Veneta Ottica before you depart for the sunny coast.

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