The Italians live among some of humankind’s most exquisite achievements in art, music, architecture and gastronomy.

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All the way down the Apennines, gli Italiani are surrounded by a sheer embarrassment of riches. From Puglia to Piedmont, Trieste to Trapani and everywhere in between, they live among some of humankind’s most exquisite achievements in art, music, architecture and gastronomy. But beyond frequenting its opera houses, osterias, and blithely passing by forums and forts, the Italians also get to play among envy-stirring natural assets, including soaring alps, volcanic islands, fog-enveloped vineyards and turquoise grottos. La dolce vita indeed.

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The Italian Riviera lives large in the imagination, not only for Italophiles in search of a storybook escape, but also for Italians, who return year after year chasing the nostalgia of summer's past. This slender crescent of coastline curves between the foothills of Tuscany and the French border, plunging from the misty wine country of Piedmont to the glimmering Ligurian Sea below. At its heart lies Genoa, decadent, crumbling, and once one of the world’s most powerful maritime republics. While the city is quietly reviving beyond its status as a pesto pilgrimage, it’s the string of seaside towns that continue to enchant.

Snaking perilously between the beginnings of the Tuscan foothills and the French border, the region is split in two: the Riviera di Levante to the east and the Riviera di Ponente to the west, with Genoa as its anchor. In the Levante, you’ll find baroque hilltop churches, literary history, and villages shaped by myth. In the Ponente, faded belle époque grandeur meets Roman relics, olive groves, and sun-bleached art nouveau villas.

More than perhaps even the Amalfi Coast, Liguria has defined the image of the Italian seaside town. And unlike Amalfi where foreign crowds dominate and post-pandemic prices have risen sharply, Liguria remains accessible and deeply Italian. Portofino, the most famous, is often mistaken for being part of the Amalfi Coast, and understandably so: its jewel-box harbor rivals Capri’s glamour. Then there’s the Cinque Terre, impossibly picturesque, though now often overrun. Yet it’s in the lesser-known towns that the true spirit of Liguria endures.

Take a romantic trail through nine towns still largely untouched by a certain type of tourism, where to swim, savor, and sleep along these charming shores. Starting in the Levante and winding westward, this path reveals the region’s shifting moods, flavors, and rhythms as it approaches the French border in search of an idea of summer past. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/43KtLfINcl4xi31jcIC1hF/b5836367c86509a77d0b01be4ad52a44/5.17.25_Liguria_body_1.png"/><figcaption>Sun, sand, and stripes of the Italian Riviera.</figcaption></figure>

## Levante (Eastern Liguria) 

### Tellaro
The Gulf of Poets, named for the Romantic-era writers who found inspiration here, Tellaro once played host to Lord Byron, who famously swam across the bay from Portovenere, and to Percy and Mary Shelley, who lived nearby. This quiet fishing village, with its pink and ochre buildings and tightly packed stone alleyways, feels much the same as it did two centuries ago. 

__Where to stay and swim__
[Eco del Mare](https://maps.app.goo.gl/72YUrZM1SVD5t5Af9) hotel and beach club, a private pebbled cove framed by cliffs and pines and accessed by stone steps from the road above, was captured in a now-iconic image by photographer Luigi Ghirri. The hotel offers an understated luxury charm with just six rooms - think linen-draped beds, carved stone terraces, and the sound of surf just beyond your door.

__Where to eat__ 
[La Barca](https://maps.app.goo.gl/LgKLFus8baV765PC8) is known for its bay views and elevated takes on local seafood like mussels in vermentino or the region’s signature, trofie al pesto. This refined osteria on the second and third floors of a building on the town’s main square. It is recognisable only by its hand-painted sign that simply reads “ristorante” and if you let your imagination go wild enough you’ll also find a town perhaps most reminiscent of the Pixar film Luca with it’s simple pleasures in daily seaside life.  

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5GLNf9YaH4uf0WF3xkP6dr/eb4098b529bbc382fde58eb9c93f89e2/5.17.25_Liguria_body_2.png"/><figcaption>Eco del Mare beach club and the bright environment of Tellaro.</figcaption></figure>

### Sestri Levante 
A peninsula split between two seas: Baia del Silenzio (Bay of Silence) and Baia delle Favole (Bay of Fables). Legend has it that the town inspired Danish author Hans Christian Andersen to write The Little Mermaid.

__Where to swim__
Wake early for Baia del Silenzio, when fishermen are still tending boats and the morning light casts a pink glow on the townhouses. Later, hike to Punta Manara for a real swim with panoramic views, and rocky coves for diving. The effort of getting there is part of the reward—this is Liguria, after all.

__Where to eat__
[Raieü](https://maps.app.goo.gl/KKbUJ9mUiP28CipUA) in the village of Cavi Borgo, a short drive away. Family run since 1890, now helmed by two young chefs advancing local tradition. Order the pansotti with walnut sauce.

__Where to stay__
[Hotel Helvetia](https://hotelhelvetia.it/) in Sestri Levante, a charming holdover from the old Riviera, modest in scale and lightly updated, but with service that feels like a throwback to a charming and slower time.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/Q1xnnNwSteuhYD2AG6ty2/70e12d979b15396ce9f3e3d028b9f598/5.17.25_Liguria_body_3.png"/><figcaption>A hiking path in Sestri Levante leading towards the Baia del Silenzio.</figcaption></figure>

### Sori 
Just minutes away from the better-known and (far more crowded) Camogli, Sori is where Liguria becomes narrow and vertical. It's the archetypal Riviera: a railway running above on a stone bridge, a belltower watching over the coastal town, and narrow passages leading down to a clean cut of sea.

__Where to swim__
[Bagni Sillo](https://maps.app.goo.gl/KEg8w1n78Jhr38K1A). A line of blue cabins, cement platforms, and visitors returning year after year to descend the stairs into the sea. It’s the kind of place that teaches you how to spend an entire afternoon doing nothing, well.

__Where to eat__
[Trattoria Edobar](https://maps.app.goo.gl/wjdQReQABzWDy19N7). The go-to place for Focaccia di Recco and thin Farinata blistered and straight from the wood-fired oven. Rustic and local, here nothing is fancy, and it feels perfect.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/7zc6FELBX7AilOF37f8xNg/3354b1f77addbead83d05bc6d8b4d9fc/5.17.25_Liguria_body_4.png"/><figcaption>Focaccia de Recco image courtesy Amanda McFarlane. The scenic coastline of Sori.</figcaption></figure>

## Ponente (Western Liguria) 

### Noli & Finale Ligure 
Noli, once an independent maritime republic, is a preserved medieval town with cobbled streets, watchtowers, and an unpolished honesty that is yet untouched by tourists. A short drive inland, Finale Ligure balances the coast with mountainous trails and climbing routes.

__Where to swim__
Between the towns of Finale Ligure and Noli, follow a winding trail through the Mediterranean scrub toward [Spiaggia di Punta Crena](https://maps.app.goo.gl/U4wdUWp4Cosyw62a8), a small hidden cove reachable only by boat, swim, or a narrow descent with ropes (if you dare). A very sporty and Ligurian way to explore the coast and its coves. Bring water shoes and a picnic.

__Where to eat__
Venture into the hills above Noli and Finale to [Barabba](https://maps.app.goo.gl/kdruTPYqrNK6PyTQ6) to find blistered pizzas and soft focaccia with mountain views. Nearby [Valleponci](https://maps.app.goo.gl/c95uTk5V68DVx9Zb7), set in a pastoral old stone farmhouse, serves updated Ligurian staples: fresh cheeses, heirloom grains, and mountain herbs.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/4PQ1AwEI5UbE2x2XIPwHiO/0f9dc5fc92bdfb7072de1a394ef6e3b2/5.17.25_Liguria_body_5.png"/><figcaption>Contemporary farm-to-table at Valle Ponci and a beach in Noli.</figcaption></figure>

### Alassio & Albenga 
Alassio’s golden beach and faded belle époque architecture nod to its British nobility visitors of the 19th century, while Albenga—more humble, more agricultural—supplies the kitchens of Liguria with heritage tomatoes and rare vegetables such as Zucchina Trombetta and the Asparago Viola – both seasonal and both worth chasing.

__Where to eat__
[I Matetti](https://maps.app.goo.gl/FYYBNPXC8JcexoyP9).  For Ligurian fare restaurant tucked into a calm street, focuses on seafood and Albenga’s outstanding local vegetables – anchovies with pickled onions, garden zucchini with mint and lemon, pastas dusted with bottarga.

__Where to stay and swim__
For a truly nostalgic stay, [Hotel Windsor](https://maps.app.goo.gl/tB5VhYCyScukVbU3A?g_st=ic) is a prestinely-preserved Belle Époque property that still hums with old Riviera elegance. It's private beach club, Bagni Windsor, is outfitted with sage-green sun loungers and scalloped parasols, creating an elegant perch for long, sun-drenched afternoons by the sea.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/3MuoIBS5UBvU51InIEcrVv/24d44634a82cbc5c4b7c1bf8237ff1df/5.17.25_Liguria_body_6.png"/><figcaption>Old riviera elegance in Albenga and the beach at Hotel Windsor.</figcaption></figure>

### Cervo
Cervo feels theatrical: Staged like an amphitheater above the sea with the Church of St John the Baptist serving as its centerpiece, we suggest ditching your car to navigate this town with its ochre facades, steep cobbled streets, and silence only interrupted by the church bells from the classic belltower. Come summer, Cervo plays host to [a chamber music festival](https://cervofestival.com/). 

__Where to swim__
Just beneath the [Porteghetto](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Q42qXyoCqtjLDNqW7) restaurant, a beautiful eatery on the coast outside of Cervo, is a [rocky beach](https://maps.app.goo.gl/zfH8KAjsSawCdqbi8) beloved by locals for its boulders, clear water, and the shade of maritime pines.

__Where to eat__
Taverna Mandragola is the kind of place you gladly stumble upon while exploring Cervo’s narrow streets. Order spaghetti alle vongole or frittura di paranza at a table nestled into an old wall. It’s everything a Ligurian meal should be: simple, salty, and soundtracked by seagulls.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/20Vv4UedzOx1Gcs2Auu6yn/57fc98d58fa9724317104b69095b1035/5.17.25_Liguria_body_7.png"/><figcaption>The soft palette and cinematic beauty of Cervo.</figcaption></figure>

### Bordighera 
The last stretch of the coast before the Côte d'Azur, French and Italian influences intertwine, felt in the wrought-iron balconies, a palm-lined seaside walk, and botanical gardens. Don’t miss [Giardino Esotico Pallanca’s](https://maps.app.goo.gl/6zwQbYs7KjQdwuoE9) thousands of rare succulents or the outstanding [Giardini Botanici Hanbury](https://maps.app.goo.gl/tg7o9SZD9RcFeMp77) 

__Where to swim__
Located meters away from the border, [La Spiaggetta dei Balzi Rossi](https://maps.app.goo.gl/EbUs62sW2T9khpjZ9) is considered one of the most exclusive beach clubs in the Riviera, perfect to linger all day and dine on the beach at sunset. 

__Where to eat__ 
[La Vecchia Ostaia](https://maps.app.goo.gl/8499RazKXqQnECk16), When he’s off-duty Chef Mauro Colagreco of three Michelin-starred local restaurant Mirazur often drops by for zucchini flowers and rabbit in white wine. Expect lace curtains, wood-burning ovens, and .

__Where to stay__ 
The [Royal Hotel](https://www.royalhotelsanremo.com/) Sanremo feels a bit more resort than regal these days but the marble flooring, white gloved service still channels another era that is fun to revisit for a night or two. 

<figure><img src= "//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/3Q4FbLrcfmTnFX4geMSTsA/93b220be7d8d4f16a7298f3e7e4cf09e/5.17.25_Liguria_body_8.png"/><figcaption>Giardini Botanici Hanbury on the coast in Bordighera.</figcaption></figure>


5.17.25 Liguria HERO

5.17.25 Liguria INDEX

Rediscovering the Italian Riviera | PRIOR

Beyond the trail of the Cinque Terre, the glamour of Portofino and the crumbling decadence of Genoa find nine Ligurian towns that are the Italian seaside ideal.

Rediscovering the Italian Riviera 

Vegetables play a central role in Roman cuisine, as well as daily life. While the once-traditional weekly food calendar—gnocchi on Thursdays, fish on Fridays, and trippa on Saturdays, set by religious precepts and family budgets—has been largely left behind, many Romans still mentally set their annual calendars by the sequence of simple ingredients appearing at the city’s markets. 

It is at their makeshift stalls where different varieties of tender-stemmed broccoli, spindly puntarelle heads in their icy water baths, globular purple artichokes being peeled by hand on site, fiercely peppery greens, and tiny zucchini with golden flowers still attached are sold by the basketful. In any of the neighborhood markets scattered around the capital—long rows of time-worn street tables, or inside charmingly decadent period buildings such as in Piazza Alessandria near Termini Station or on Via Cola di Rienzo in the Prati district—vendors offer heaps of fleeting treasures often grown and picked themselves, or cook recipes containing them. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/3x6eQyKPhWJ8Hx7Xgo2t1n/23524d0d0eda7e31a31addbd5071a9f3/Rome_Vegetables_body.jpg"/><figcaption>Italian market courtesy of Mark Pecar, Pizza and vegetable stand courtesy of Mercato di Testaccio</figcaption></figure>

At the recently renovated Mercato di Testaccio [www.mercatoditestaccio.it], the pizza al taglio (rectangular slices cooked on baking sheets) may have tiny confit tomatoes on top, or bresaola with ricotta and the season’s first strawberries. Or the alimentari shelves will be stacked with glass jars of sottoli—a classic preparation of vegetables like pepperoncini or eggplant preserved under glugs of extra-virgin olive oil. On the menus of the rustic trattorie and elegant ristorante around the city, the dishes and flavors also follow an identical adherence to what’s coming from the farms and gardens at any given moment.

To truly know Rome is to know it by its vegetables’ fruits, flowers, and greens. Here’s what produce to eat, when and where.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5E4MbfuAVHjNWMlY0yKFts/185b46d38c3d908841303cf7ad8c7591/Rome_Vegetables_body2.jpg"/><figcaption>Spread with beef tartare courtesy of Procolo Trastevere, fresh Puntaralle, Cicoria courtesy of Armando al Pantheon</figcaption></figure>

### Puntarelle: December to March
Romans wait for early spring with the same anticipation many cultures reserve for summer: this is the season for puntarelle, the iconic Roman green with a short growing season. Actually the leaves and stalks of a variety of chicory (cicoria catalogna or cicoria asparago) picked young, the crisp and erratic shoots are typically cut into strips with a tagliapuntarelle tool, then soaked in ice water to keep them perky and curly. In Rome, a classic dressing for a salad called puntarelle alla romana uses extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, lots of anchovy, vinegar, and salt for a fierce and refreshing effect. In early spring, it is everywhere at local restaurants; at [Proloco Trastevere](https://www.facebook.com/prolocotrastevere/), the cooks use the anchovy filets from the Anzio seashore, mixed with extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper and vinegar, and served the dressed puntarelle to accompany beef tartare. 

### Cicoria: Spring, Fall, and Winter
While there are innumerable chicory varieties in and around Rome—the bitter, crisp vegetables are a perennial feature in local gardens and farms, and in the wild—the grassy, green leaf known simply as “cicoria” is ubiquitous in stalls and on menus. An essential part of the Roman diet, it’s a companion to meat and fish, and usually served in the same way, cicoria strascinata: sautéed with generous lashings of olive oil and garlic, and sometimes a pinch of chiles. (The accompaniments serve to tame some of its bracing bitterness.) Find an archetypal version at [Cesare al Casaletto](https://www.trattoriadacesare.it/?lang=en), or see it in the old-school preparation of coratella (a mix of braised lamb heart, liver, and lungs) at [Armando al Pantheon](https://www.armandoalpantheon.it/en/).

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5jERWAJiuMTS8rqgATDnj4/7c44a88773f76e929de1e21c83b910d6/Rome_Vegetables_body3.jpg"/><figcaption>Deep fried “alla guida” and exterior courtesy of Ba’Ghetto, Artichokes at market courtesy of Philippe Vieux-Jeanton</figcaption></figure>

### Carciofo Romanesco (Artichokes): Late Winter and Spring 
Artichokes have been essential to Roman cuisine since ancient times, both for its culinary and medical uses—the Latin writer and agronomy expert Columella often mentioned them in his essays. Italy yields all sorts of varieties: spiny and violet from Sardinia, small and round from Campania, and oblong from Apulia to name a few. The ones authentically local to Rome are picked and sold each year around Easter, largely from the countryside near the Latium seashore. These huge and spherical carciofi romaneschi (Carciofo Romanesco del Lazio PGI), also dubbed “cimaroli” (top, as they grow from the central stalk of the plant and are free of thorns) or “mammole” (violet), they may be braised with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley and mentuccia (lesser calamint), which is exactly how they serve them at [Sora Lella](https://www.trattoriasoralella.it/it/). Deep fried, also called “alla giudia,” they are a deeply crunchy and flaky symbol of the traditional Roman-Jewish cuisine observing the Kashrut, and perfectly performed at [Ba’Ghetto](https://www.baghetto.com/en/). They can be grilled or baked, maybe stuffed with eggs and Pecorino cheese, as at [Proloco Trastevere](https://www.facebook.com/prolocotrastevere/).

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/2POl53vInoWwt5bxC76m6M/a9960969604d2a8868540bb19fcf4e92/Rome_Vegetables_body4.jpg"/><figcaption>Close up of Broccolo Romanesco, Minestra di broccoli e arzilla, Fresh Broccolo in market courtesy of Mercato di Testaccio</figcaption></figure>

### Broccolo Romanesco: October to March
Mesmerizing with its fractal shape (whose inflorescences replicate the Fibonacci sequence) and dragon-like vivid green color, this brassica, which originated in the area, is tender-stemmed and has a fruity brightness. It is cooked with ray fish in the winter soup minestra di broccoli e arzilla, which is finished with handful of broken spaghetti or the tiny fresh egg pasta called quadrucci. Once a recipe of the Christmas season, it is now served winter-round in traditional restaurants such as [Al Moro](https://www.ristorantealmororoma.it/en/), [Taverna Cestia](https://www.facebook.com/Taverna-Cestia-158420324176178/), [Lo Scopettaro](https://www.facebook.com/loscopettaroroma/?rf=344566008999057) and Da Felice [[http://feliceatestaccio.it/en/rome/]]. Much harder to find (outside of home kitchens) are the versions of the heads dipped in a thick batter and fried. At the glorious [Sora Maria e Arcangelo](http://www.soramariaearcangelo.com/) trattoria in Olevano Romano (a one-hour drive south of Rome) Giovanni Milana offers them at the start of a meal. [Osteria di Monteverde](http://www.losteriadimonteverde.it/) does a modern version, mixing broccolo romanesco, potatoes, and Pecorino cheese to create a lovely croquette.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/1jvo1rxdgEpAFGuurK8GhS/d72b81d618da00264f905155d47638cd/Rome_Vegetables_body5.jpg"/><figcaption>Zucchine in market and variety with flowers courtesy of Mercato di Testaccio, zucchine ripiene courtesy of Perilli at Testaccio</figcaption></figure>

### Zucchine Romanesche: May to November
A stripier, slimmer variety of common zucchini, often slightly curved and with deep ridges on its edges, Roman zucchini will often come with their ethereal, orange-hued edible flowers still attached. On tables the buds will often be filled with ricotta or mozzarella and anchovies, then lightly battered and fried (though the best for this purpose are the “male” flowers, growing not on the squash but on separate stems). Despite their slender diameter, the zucchini themselves are often hollowed and stuffed with meat, then stewed in a tomato sauce (zucchine ripiene), such as at [Perilli a Testaccio](https://www.facebook.com/perilliatestaccio/). A different approach with roots in Roman-Jewish cuisine—served at Ba’Ghetto and in many other restaurants in the old Jewish area of the city and near the central synagogue—is the concia (“tan”) di zucchine, in which the squash are thinly sliced, cooked in oil, and seasoned with vinegar, giving them a deep hue.  

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/2md09SNxmoK5Z3UV3yZ9Au/f91ce53a9abc7603516f0507ed6f8f9a/Rome_Vegetables_body6.jpg"/><figcaption>Fava beans in market courtesy of Heather Cowper, Close up of fava beans courtesy of Mercato di Testaccio</figcaption></figure>

### Fagiolo di Fave (Fava Beans): Spring  
In Rome, you know that winter is over when broad beans, or fava beans, appear in the market stalls: These wide, flat pods containing waxy green beans are one of the first gastronomic symbols of the mild season. Paired raw with chunks of Pecorino cheese they are a staple of picnics on May 1, when Workers’ Day is usually celebrated with an outdoor lunch, but are also enjoyed sautéed with guanciale on their own, or as one of the trifecta of green ingredients composing vignarola, a springtime vegetable braise that features artichokes, fresh peas, and fava beans (and sometimes asparagus, spring onions, or other seasonal green vegetables). Odds are good of finding it on the seasonal menu at [Da Cesare](https://www.trattoriadacesare.it/?lang=en) or at restaurant [L’Arcangelo](https://www.larcangelo.com/en/) in the Prati area.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/7DTsm41Bd9BB4n1gmVVEgg/b082391034f5f6f2aee036a24fe61b7a/Rome_Vegetables_body7.jpg"/><figcaption>Vendor and market with greens courtesy of Mercato di Testaccio, Green salad courtesy of Retrobottega</figcaption></figure>

### Misticanza (Rocket and Other Wild Greens): Winter and Spring
A term for a mixture of wild greens, herbs, and field shoots, each market vendor or restaurant will have their own blend. Often times it will be a mix of arugula mixed with borage, escarole, sorrel, pimpernel, dandelion, black radish leaves or an even longer list of weirdly named leaves, but often it is multi-colored and mixes sweet, bitter, sour, and spicy flavors. Misticanza may be served raw and cold or cooked with olive oil and garlic, the former preparation common at [Retrobottega](https://www.retrobottegadc.com/) and [Barred](http://www.barred.it/) and the latter at times at Testaccio-neighborhood trattoria [Piatto Romano](http://www.piattoromano.com). The mix makes its way into stuffed breads and sandwiches at times, including at branches of [Trapizzino](https://www.trapizzino.it/en/) found around the city.


Rome Vegetables hero

Rome Vegetables index

Discover the vibrant culinary calendar of Rome, where seasonal vegetables like Puntarelle, Cicoria, Carciofo Romanesco (Artichokes), Broccolo Romanesco, Zucchine Romanesche, Fava Beans, and Misticanza take center stage. Explore when and where to savor these delectable Roman vegetables.

Exploring Rome Through Its Seasonal Vegetables: From Puntarelle to Fava Beans | PRIOR

The Eternal City practically sets its calendar by the annual profusion of artichokes, chicories, squash, and other seasonal produce that turns up in its markets and on its tables. Here’s how (and where) to experience Rome through its defining vegetables. 

Ciao Cicoria

While everyone knows Prosecco, Italy produces a lesser-known sparkling gem: Franciacorta. Just an hour northeast of [Milan](https://priorworld.com/trips/milan-behind-closed-doors-2026), this small region turns out some [19 million bottles](https://winenews.it/en/franciacorta-market-holds-in-2025-with-18-9-million-bottles-export-at-5-3_581940/?utm_source=openai) annually—a fraction of Prosecco’s 600 million—yet its wines are consistently among the country’s most precise and age-worthy.

Wine has been made in Franciacorta for centuries, but it wasn’t until the 1960s that producers began to focus on traditional-method sparkling wines. Industrialists from Milan and Bergamo initially planted chardonnay and pinot noir—two of [Champagne](https://priorworld.com/editorial/a-starter-guide-to-grower-champagne)’s three principal grapes—with the aim of emulating the French model. Today, the region adheres to what Jancis Robinson, in [*The Oxford Companion to Wine*](http://www.oxfordcompaniontowine.com/), calls an “admirable code of self-regulation…at least as strict as Champagne’s,” requiring extended lees aging: a minimum of 18 months for nonvintage wines and 60 months for Riserva. The result is bottles with depth, structure, and real aging potential.

That seriousness extends underground. Many estates maintain expansive subterranean cellars that are reminiscent of Champagne’s. And unlike other Italian wine regions where visits can feel opaque or appointment-only, Franciacorta is known to welcome the public. Renewed investments in hillside vineyards and organic methods further raised quality, making the case for a visit even stronger.

The industry has long attracted polished villas, discreet hotels, and Michelin-starred osterias. Yet rustic pleasures remain: family-run estates, handmade regional cheeses, locally cured sardines, and wooden boats drifting across Lake Iseo. Spend a day tasting and lingering over lunch by the water, and you begin to understand both the refinement and the restraint that define this corner of Lombardy.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/66rHlAGvtdcVIkbK8ab0mu/aa8ebd200c827794e8ab83008c063084/2.28.26_Refresh_Franciacorta_body_1.png" alt="Elegant façade and vineyards of Ronco Calino winery in Franciacorta, reflecting the estate’s blend of architecture and landscape."/><figcaption>Courtesy Ronco Calino Franciacorta</figcaption></figure>

### 360-Degree Vineyard Views at [**Ronco Calino**](https://www.roncocalino.it/en/)

The story goes that founder Paolo Radici only drank sparkling wine, making his purchase of this estate a logistical indulgence. The property, acquired from renowned pianist Arturo Benedetti Michelangeli, has been run since 2002 by Radici’s wife, Lara Imberti Radici, who oversees the certified organic winery. Six miles from Lake Iseo, Ronco Calino runs along a north-facing hillside planted with 25 acres of vines—roughly a quarter of them pinot noir—that yield bottles with notable richness and texture. The estate is fringed by 120 olive trees, and ongoing efforts focus on biodiversity and reducing the winery’s carbon footprint. From the glass-lined lounge at the heart of the cellar, you can sip your bubbly encircled by the vines that produced it. Tours are offered daily.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/4HTGzXtUvU3LgSamH8nZeM/74914429ff1f4eff9e6be78cdec76482/2.28.26_Refresh_Franciacorta_body_2.png" alt="Faccoli Franciacorta winery with vineyard rows extending across the countryside under a clear sky."/><figcaption>Courtesy Faccoli</figcaption></figure>

### Meeting the Family at [**Faccoli**](https://www.faccolifranciacorta.it/en)

This small, family-run estate has been making wine for more than six decades, with visits led by family members. While many producers cluster near Lake Iseo, Faccoli sits on the far side of Monte Orfano, a broad hill that shields its vineyards from rain and hail and makes them among the sunniest in the region.

The house style favors dry wines that speak clearly of the terroir. You won’t find Satèn here—that softer, less fizzy blanc de blancs style once fashionable in Franciacorta. Instead, tastings unfold at a large wooden table beside a fireplace, with four carefully considered wines that reflect the estate’s distinctive approach.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/20EDrBcawwGS835iTcBviD/ba3a6740c2a0dcf296944039e7ce9ae0/2.28.26_Refresh_Franciacorta_body_3.png" alt="Exterior view of Guido Berlucchi wine estate showcasing historic buildings and surrounding vineyards in Franciacorta."/><figcaption>Courtesy Guido Berlucchi</figcaption></figure>

### Palazzo Grandeur at [**Guido Berlucchi**](https://www.berlucchi.it/visite-cantina/en/)

Guido Berlucchi, one of Franciacorta’s pioneering estates, balances classicism with innovation. The heart of the property is a grand 17th-century palazzo, and the surrounding vineyards have been mapped with aerial equipment to identify optimal growing zones.

In 1961, Berlucchi became the first producer in the region to referment sparkling wine in-bottle, adopting the traditional method that defines Franciacorta today. Though now the largest estate in the appellation by acreage, it also counts some of the area’s oldest vines within its holdings.

The Gli Esclusivi tour offers access to tastings of older vintages and time inside the palazzo itself, where the scale and history of the estate come fully into view.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/CqJ9T63K8nP2avlTsmeXK/30dde834819b676645a2da54b489611a/2.28.26_Refresh_Franciacorta_body_4.png" alt="Mirabella winery set among vineyard slopes in Franciacorta, highlighting traditional architecture and natural scenery."/><figcaption>Courtesy Mirabella</figcaption></figure>

### Sparkling Rosé and Salumi at [**Mirabella**](https://mirabellafranciacorta.it/?lang=en)

Mirabella was among the first estates in Franciacorta to produce sparkling rosé, and winemaker Alessandro Schiavi continues to champion pinot bianco, a grape now rarely seen in the region as chardonnay has come to dominate plantings.

At the family-run winery in Rodengo-Saiano, sommelier Giovanni Felini—born and raised in Franciacorta and formerly of Guido Berlucchi—hosts visits. He guides guests through the cellar, which once served as a prison during World War II, before settling into a seated tasting.

Each tasting is accompanied by cheese from local dairy Cascina La Benedetta and salumi from Norcineria Polastri Macèlér, grounding the wines firmly in their place.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/vCxpVPknuPZLsO9XmAgvE/c5c1de8721c2f616ef20dacf576744a3/2.28.26_Refresh_Franciacorta_body_5.png" alt="Bellavista wine estate with terraced vineyards and stone buildings nestled in the Franciacorta landscape."/><figcaption>Courtesy Bellavista</figcaption></figure>

### See Where It All Began at [**Bellavista**](https://franciacorta.wine/en/wineries/bellavista/)

While Bellavista is hardly a modest operation, its role in shaping Franciacorta’s global reputation is undeniable. Founded in 1977 by Vittorio Moretti on the slopes of the morainic hills, the estate now farms 500 acres of organically tended vineyards and produces around 1.5 million bottles annually using the traditional method. Today, it is run by Moretti’s daughter, Francesca.

Bellavista’s cultural ties run deep: It produces the official cuvée for [Milan’s Teatro alla Scala](https://priorworld.com/trips/milan-behind-closed-doors-2026), poured each year at the opera house’s season premiere. Visits can be tailored to suit the occasion, whether a vertical tasting for serious enophiles or a more celebratory family gathering.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/4i7PJLseryFTUSB1X2W1a4/d94ad5bc3b30816b8c51fd6168d2f619/2.28.26_Refresh_Franciacorta_body_6.png" alt="Majolini vineyards in Franciacorta with rows of grapevines stretching toward the horizon."/><figcaption>Courtesy Majolini</figcaption></figure>

### Organic Sips at [**Majolini**](https://www.majolini.com/)

While many Franciacorta estates lie closer to lake level, Majolini rises into the hills between Lake Iseo and Lake Orta, in the town of Ome, where the Majolini family has lived since 1550. The family’s roots run so deep that a local red grape, Majolina, bears their name.

Today, third-generation cousins Simone and Giovanni run the organic winery. Its terraced vineyards, planted in limestone-rich soils at higher elevation, yield wines marked by notable structure and a distinct saline edge. Tastings paired with local meats and cheeses can take place in the cellar or outdoors on a deck overlooking the valley. Visits often incorporate works from the family’s art collection.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/2CyriT7ERuEZUclAop9VWX/40dfb9400fc75f533973a2ce119b3be3/2.28.26_Refresh_Franciacorta_body_7.png" alt="Ricci Curbastro winery and vineyards in Franciacorta, featuring historic buildings and cultivated fields."/><figcaption>Courtesy Ricci Curbastro</figcaption></figure>

### Vintage Treasures at [**Ricci Curbastro**](https://www.riccicurbastro.it/en/home-2-2/)

Gualberto and Filippo Ricci Curbastro are the 18th generation of their family to grow vines in Franciacorta. In addition to producing wine, the estate has housed a wine museum since 1986, its collection tracing the region’s evolution as a serious appellation—Ricci Curbastro was one of the 11 founding wineries of the DOC.

Today, alongside their father Riccardo, the brothers oversee more than 80 acres of vineyards, some stretching to the shores of Lake Iseo. A defining focus here is patience: A portion of the Franciacorta is aged extensively before release, with three of the six bottlings spending more than a decade in the cellar. The estate’s reserves rest some 50 feet underground.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/sJGc5YEfpFJiN0irgtpO6/2aa3080a097cb0103ae18873bb600265/2.28.26_Refresh_Franciacorta_body_8.png" alt="Ca’ del Bosco winery surrounded by vineyards and contemporary sculptures in the Franciacorta countryside."/><figcaption>Courtesy Ca’ del Bosco</figcaption></figure>

### Art and Bike Tours at [**Ca’del Bosco**](https://www.cadelbosco.com/en/)

When Annamaria Clementi Zanella purchased a house in the woods—Ca’del Bosco—in the 1960s, it came with just five acres of land. Today, the sleek, modern estate spans nearly 700 organically farmed acres, making it one of the largest wineries in Franciacorta.

Though the region now centers almost exclusively on sparkling wine, Ca’del Bosco continues to produce still reds and whites alongside its flagship Franciacorta, a nod to Lombardy’s earlier winemaking traditions.

A visit moves from stainless steel tanks and barrel rooms into labyrinthine underground cellars, where contemporary sculpture and photography—commissioned by the Zanella family over four decades—punctuate the space and the surrounding hills. For those keen to linger among the vines, the estate also offers e-bike tours that conclude with a tasting.

2.28.26 Refresh Franciacorta HERO

2.28.26 Refresh Franciacorta INDEX

An hour from Milan, Franciacorta’s vineyard estates offer traditional sparkling wines, underground cellars, and tastings with panoramic views.

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Oh... and also

Walk the marble floors of the Sistine Chapel and see the Pope’s usually off-limits private chapel during a private, after-hours tour with a Vatican lecturer.

Experience an authentic Venetian banquet in a 16th-century palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal.

Stand before a display of lights and fireworks in honor of Saint Domenica during the notte delle luci (night of lights) in the Puglian town of Scorrano.

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