Nestled between the pastoral Prosecco country of the Veneto, the quaint hilltown of Asolo is flush with grand palazzi and winding cobblestone streets dating back two millennia. It’s the ideal destination for those who seek a break from the chaos of Rome and Venice while still being able to enjoy the cosmopolitan perks of museums, wineries and Renaissance-era architecture. One of Asolo’s best-known treasures is Hotel Villa Cipriani, a throwback boutique hotel that was once the 18th-century home of the English poet Robert Browning and a prim-and-proper getaway for the likes of Orson Welles and Barbara Streisand.
The Check-In
An hour drive from Venice and Marco Polo airport and at the foothills of Veneto’s Dolomites, the patinaed, gated archway of Villa Cipriani feels like a portal to another time, like, say, the 1960s, when the hotel was a country inn operated by the Guinness family and, later, an in-the-know hotel in the hands of Giuseppe Cipriani, the founder of Harry’s Bar in Venice and inventor of the Bellini cocktail.
The distinguished pedigree carries over to much of the hotel’s throwback charms, everything from the antique equestrian photographs in the bar to to the crumbling rose gardens worthy of Ms. Streisand herself. It is a type of timeless, discreet hospitality that, like clockwork, always manages to stay one step ahead of your whims. The front desk has likely already arranged for you a tour of the nearby villa of the British-Italian explorer Freya Stark and waiters in white dinner jackets are sure to have Bellinis at the ready, day or night.
The Region
The numerous craft boutiques, hole-in-the-wall restaurants and enoteche in Asolo are easily accessible by walking. A car or driver is only necessary for exploration further afield, such as Antonio Canova’s Gipsoteca museum in Possagno or the bubbly wineries of Valdobbiadene. Valsugana, a closeby valley in the Dolomites, is dotted with mountain bike paths, local osterias serving plates of canederli (much deserved after a day of cycling) and the occasional art installation. In Bassano del Grappa, a hilltown along the Brenta river beloved for its hometown Grappa, have a tour and a pour at Distilleria Nardini, Italy’s oldest distillery. Or hop in a boat along the Brenta river to take in the spectacle of Palladian palaces built by the Italian architect Andrea Palladio.
The Look
Think a blend of Italian linens, antique mirrors and stately tapestries paired with a Cipriani-esque splash of candy-striped wallpaper, mint-hued beamed ceilings and fresh-cut roses (that matches the floral-print furniture, obviously.) It’s old-school, sure, but in an endearingly throwback way that is hard to come by these days. Despite the fact that the property was recently renovated by Massimo Zanetti, owner of the Segafredo Zanetti group, the verdant courtyard separating the main Villa and Garden House retains the feel of a 1980s British romance film set in the Italian countryside — in the absolute best way possible.
The Rooms
An endless combination of fresh flower arrangements, marble antiques and gilded mirrors assures that no two rooms are the same. In fact, the term “standard” isn’t in the concierge’s vocabulary. Split across the central villa and an annexed Garden property, rooms come with private terraces — dramatic views of Asolo’s green valleys, Monte Grappa peaks or the expertly-maintained rose gardens are guaranteed — and a phantasmagoria of Vietri sul Mare bathroom tiles, dark-wood period furniture and architectural accents in pastel hues.
Food & Drink
While Italy is certainly known for its fine art and architecture, everyone knows it’s really all about the enogastronomy. So it should come as no surprise that the hotel’s ristorazione — Ristorante Villa Cipriani, the hotel’s formal restaurant; Bistrot Rosamarino, a garden eatery where club sandwiches and fruit bowls come served on a silver platter; and American Bar, a debonair drinking joint for devotees of Tom Collins and Rob Roys — are the hotel’s heart and soul. Thankfully, each of the three spots is ideal for all manner of dining and drinking at all manners of the day. The original Cipriani à la carte menu features classics like carpaccio (said to be invented by Giuseppe Cipriani in the 1950s), finger-sized “Pierino” toasts and, of course, peachy Bellinis. Breakfast is Italian, rigorously so, with a selection of cornetti, maritozzi and pane con burro e marmellata. Flanked by boxwoods and herb gardens overflowing with nettle sprouts and lavender, the outside tables peppered across the peaceful, manicured garden offer a front-row view to the breathtaking vistas of the Asolo Valley. However, space below the terrace pergola fills up fast, so get there early.
The Check-Out
The list of private Renaissance villas, museums, wineries, restaurants, bars and nature walks in Veneto is truly endless. And that is not even considering all the art, architecture and anchovies one can feast on just a short ride away in Venice. As with most countryside destinations, the first order of business is to immerse oneself in the slow life; a state of mind allowing each moment to be savored thoroughly and remembered — without needing to post on Instagram, preferably. As the Italians say, each museum or monument doesn’t “run away,” or non scappa. So take your time sipping vintages in century-old cellars, window shopping at the many marble-floored villas and tasting every interpretation of baccalà mantecato the Adriatic has on offer.
