Some designers think in collections. Brunello Cucinelli thinks in millennia. At a time when the fashion industry seems to be outpacing its production every year, the Italian designer known for his subtle and sumptuous cashmere that will last a lifetime has forged a more intentional path: One he calls Humanistic Capitalism. In lieu of fast fashion, Cucinelli has stationed his eponymous fashion empire in the 13th-century Italian hamlet of Solomeo, Umbria, dedicating his life and work, in part, to its restoration. Here, the designer-cum-philosopher shares his views on craftsmanship, quality and an unmistakably Italian way of life.
Abbye Churchill: You clearly have such a devout appreciation for your materials — cashmere in particular. How did you start working with it?
Brunello Cucinelli: I wanted to produce something that you wouldn't throw away. I've never met anyone that threw away a cashmere sweater. In my personal closet, I've kept all my clothing, even from when I was a young boy. Every garment represents a moment in my life. I come from a farmer background where we use everything, we repair and restore everything. I've always lived in this way.
When I started this business, I only wanted to produce in Italy. I thought I could produce beautiful cashmere in Italy with a very high quality of craftsmanship and materials so that what we make would last for generations.
You are very dedicated to Italian manufacturing, but also to Solomeo, the hamlet where you’ve based your business. You have spent the past several decades donating a portion of your profits to restoring the town. I wanted to speak a little bit about your commitment to that restoration, and what inspiration you find in living there.
I think about living here like regaining an equilibrium with humanity. I'll give you an example: Let's say you have a plant, and you give that plant some fertilizer. The plant will grow at a rapid rate. Perhaps you'll yield great fruit, but the land around that plant will all burn. If you give that same plant natural compost, the plant will grow at a more normal pace, and the land around that plant will be nourished.
This building that I’m in now was built in the 1300s. Can you imagine how many people died here? How many people lived here? How many people loved one another here? We are just but temporary guardians of the world, and I would like to be a guardian of this town. A guardian restores and perhaps builds something new. Up until 50 years ago, this town produced oil, grain and wine. Now we produce cashmere, oil and wine. Even so, I don't think that I have made major changes to this hamlet. We've made some additions and we've built some new things, too: a theater, a winery and a monument dedicated to human dignity that will perhaps be there in a thousand years’ time. I think this idea of integrating with your surroundings is to be a temporary guardian.
It was the Roman emperor Hadrian who said, "I feel responsible for the beauty in the world.” However, I'm also quite fascinated by the Greeks. The Greeks wanted to build for eternity. I would like to build for eternity. If, in 50 years, my grandson Brando wears this sweater that I wear now, I'll be so happy.
