Yes, Sur!

PRIOR’s zen day in Big Sur, California’s mythical pocket of redwood forests, crashing waves and timeless bohemia. Where to find your inner Earth Mother, the cutest cabin stay and hot springs by moonlight.

Category:Adventure
Photography:Conor Burke
UpdatedJuly 16, 2020

Big Sur is more than a destination; it’s a state of mind. The mecca of earth mothers and zen surfers, this woodland meets ocean perch has become far more than a highway stop between Los Angeles and San Francisco. It is the wellspring of a holistic approach to living and a free flowing style, a modern movement grounded by the pioneering environmentalism and off-the-grid romance of its old timers.

Big Sur is a place to experience nature in multisensory ways—the roaring surf of the Pacific, the stillness and tangy scent of the redwoods, the bubbling of the natural hot springs, the moody fog that envelops the cliffs in summer. Young adventure seeking pilgrims, new-age free spirits and mystics, and urbanites looking to disconnect from Silicon Valley just 90 minutes to the north seek out this still-wild strip of coastline that Tasmanian-born artist Francis McComas once called the “greatest meeting of land and sea.”

That first glimpse of the craggy, jagged meeting of land, ocean and an enchanted forest as you drive along the Pacific Coast Highway is one you will never forget. Here, a few things you can do to augment the natural high along the route.

1) 8:30 a.m. Sur is for surfing

Drive south to Sand Dollar Beach, where you’ll find some of the best waves in the area. This crescent-shaped beach is a longboarder's dream spot, and a great place for beginners so there is no excuse not to don a wetsuit and paddle into the Pacific. Note: Due to road closures south of Big Sur, access to Sand Dollar may be limited. Be sure to check conditions before heading out.

2) 11 a.m. A low-key brunch at a legend

Tucked into the redwoods, Deetjen’s Restaurant is an enduring Big Sur institution. Grab a seat in the magnolia-filled garden or settle into one of the cozy dining rooms to try chef Domingo Santamaria’s hearty breakfast burrito or a stack of buttermilk pancakes.

3) 1:30 p.m. Modern earth mother essentials

Wander into Mother Botanical & Shop to find all your modern earthly essentials—Ylang Ylang CBD Facial Serum, The Mushroom Tarot cards, and How To Love by Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh. Then have a peek into the little gallery, which features the works of local female artists.

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From left to right: Sand Dollar Beach; Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn; Julia Pfieffer Burns State Park. Photograghs by Ben Hannon and courtesy of Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn

4) 2 p.m. Nurture with Nature

To not catch a glimpse of the iconic 80 foot-high McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, which flows year round over granite cliffs and spills directly into the sea, is to not experience the power of the place at all. Known the world over for its soft purple sand and pink sunsets, it’s a wonderful spot for picnics and long walks. In the winter months, the benches at the end of the Overlook trail see whales majestically migrating south.

5) 4 p.m. Ancient hot springs for the New Age

Esalen the institute is a center for well-being and their cliffside hot springs have been in ritual and healing use by the indigenous Esselen people for more than 6,000 years. They helped to bring New Age therapy into Modern Age America and the Institute still offers a range of tested and true mind-body-spirit workshops and classes. Advance booking online is required; reservations often run weeks in advance.

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