For centuries, the Lake Como idyll—plunging mountainsides, manicured gardens, and inky waters— has enthralled everyone from Lord Byron to Italian industrialists to celebrities. In 2012, Kerry Olsen, the British journalist and her husband and Yoox founder Federico Marchetti, felt the pull and put down roots in a former silk weaving factory, La Filanda, in the village of Lenno. “Lake Como is a place where you can really relax and linger over a spritz or just take a walk in a beautiful garden” says Olsen, who spent much of her time here with her family during the pandemic. (Many Milanese families, like hers, came to Como as a bucolic escape.) “It doesn’t change so much but that’s part of the charm.” Still, this summer there will be no shortage of the glamor as the De Santis family (who own the fabled Grand Hotel Tremezzo here) open the Villa Passalacqua, a 24-suite luxury boutique hotel nestled above the village of Moltrasio, on June 3rd. The family painstakingly restored the historic mansion and the grounds to their former glory with formal gardens, antique orchards, lakeside tennis courts and a private dock where guests can select from a fleet of vintage boats. “Valentina De Santis is very excited,” says Olsen of her friend who is known for the warmth of her hospitality and dedication to both the legacy of the storied properties and their continual evolution. At Villa Passalacqua “She has designed everything down to the salt and pepper shakers.” When she’s not working in her garden or swimming in the lake, Olsen tells PRIOR about her favorite spots around Lake Como.
Eat
Trattoria Il Grifo has been run by the Bianchi family since 1912 and it's now overseen by the second and third generations. “Try the missoltini (dried fish) said to be named after misolta – the wooden containers used to press fish,” says Olsen. “It’s salted, hung to dry, and stored in tins with bay leaves for months. Eat them with polenta taragna, made from corn and buckwheat.” Olsen likes Locanda La Tirlindana for its lemon ravioli and the private setting down a long narrow road. The tables slope right down to the water which creates a rustic vibe. “A lot of celebrities come here because they can come by boat and not be seen,” she says.
For a more casual meal, Olsen recommends picking up delicacies (meats and cheeses, local wines) from Da Luciano, a local café and butcher shop, which she calls the “Dean & DeLuca of Como.” They also prepare baskets for boat rides. She also likes Le Specialità Lariane in Lenno for smoked local fish, olive oil, and preserves. “They make for great gifts.”
Drink
“Having a drink lakeside at Il Sereno is a nice modern twist on the usual Como villa scene,” says Olsen. The hotel, which opened in the tiny town of Torno in 2016, was the mastermind of the Spanish designer Patrica Urquiolia and is an elegant study in steel, walnut and natural stone— a sleek departure from the lake’s other grand dame properties. That said, Olsen’s not opposed to more classic spots like Harry’s Bar in Cernobbio for an early evening aperitivo.
Shop
While Como is known more for its small shops with traditional gifts, The Sense of Lake shop at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo carries a stylish collection of clothing and home goods. “I love the For Restless Sleepers (FRS) collection,” says Olsen, which is designed by her friend Francesca Ruffini, who lives across the lake. Ruffini, who was born in Como, started out making silky pajamas in whimsical prints like Japanese calligraphy and Victorian botanicals. Today the collection has expanded into caftans and shirt dresses—ideal for garden parties or Riva boat rides on the lake. Tessabit has been around since 1953 and has expanded with many locations around Como including one at the grand Villa D’Este hotel. “There’s Gucci and Dior,” says Olsen. “But you also find classic, Italian clothing.”
See
“Spring is the best time of year to see the camellias in bloom at the gardens at the Villa Carlotta,” says Olsen, who spent a lot of time here when her daughter was young. “We’d pack a picnic and spend the entire day here.” The botanical garden, next to the magnificent pink villa which is perhaps one of Como’s most famous sights, is full of ancient trees, palms, azaleas, to name a few. Olsen also suggests exploring the greenway, a six mile long waterfront walk that winds through Como’s historic villages.
