A year of upheaval is nothing new to the people of Buenos Aires. A long and turbulent political and economical history have, even in recent years, brought waves of social unrest and urban challenges to this colorful South American city again and again. As the curveballs continue to come, however, the people of Buenos Aires’ resilience and ability to evolve is as strong as ever. Right now, with the city attempting its first COVID-19 reopening and recovery, you can see it in the plazas and faces, and feel it everywhere around.
November is usually somewhat of a dream month to be in Buenos Aires, the well-kept secret of those who live there or visit often. Before the summer gets too hot and swampy, and just as the jacarandá trees begin bursting with purple blooms, everyone who knows is out and making the most of it. Locals and expats who split their time also traditionally return in or around November to enjoy the best time of year, and early November is not only the start of the city’s short polo season, but also the glittery, exultant LGBQT Pride parade. “It’s always a time of year not to be missed, but this year there is this really incredible spirit and buzz in the air,” says Paige Nichols, a travel expert who lives and plans itineraries in the city. “The restaurants and cafes are full, everyone is in the plazas, and it feels really ebullient.”
BA has always been known to make use of its open spaces for outdoor seating, exhibits, and terrace bars, but right now feels a particularly apt moment to celebrate and frequent them—both the timeless and the timely. While new places have opened that demonstrate a creative boom and more progressive ways of looking at traditions in gastronomy, wine, and art, the best of the old places seem to have grown into something different as well.
It’s a time to breathe easy, even if, as always, the future remains up in the air. Here’s where to enjoy the city’s best “aire libre” activities now.
Where to Eat
Chuí
This all outdoor restaurant in the quiet and somewhat industrial Villa Crespo bario has some overhead coverings, but no walls. Always packed to the gills, it’s a cool little late-night mini oasis with a focus on vegetarian small plates, a budding trend in the city right now. Calle Ignacio de Loyola 1250, Villa Crespo
Catalino
Dedicated to “food sovereignty and consciousness,” the big focus here is on agroecologico, locally raised meat, and seasonal produce. Run like a supper club, the restaurant is situated in a house with a patio and garden. The chef-owners have a chicken that roams around the property, and they use her eggs for the flan. Maure 3162, Colegiales
Shokupan
A brand new pickup counter with a leafy, loungy patio out back, this Japanese sando spot in Palermo’s Sticotti architecture and design studio features fresh and simple ingredients between the fluffiest milk bread. Godoy Cruz 1740, Palermo
La Alacena
This Italian restaurant and cafe in a beautiful, sunny corner of Palermo is well-known by locals. Along with high-quality semolina pasta served with fresh market vegetables, they serve breads, pastries, antipasti, and large plates like porchetta and meatballs. “It’s also one of my favorite dog spotting corners,” Nichols says. “We always go with our dog.” Gascón 1401, Palermo
