The evaporation of August’s heat ushers in more than just fall: It’s also the start of peak oyster season in the US. Though nowadays modern farming practices allow the eating of oysters from many—especially more northern—regions year-round (that old adage about only consuming oysters in months containing the letter ‘R’ largely predates the advent of refrigeration and regulation), the truth is that most species still taste their best in fall and winter months. Spawning season occurs for some in the warmer summer months—the hard work of which depletes the oysters of their own food reserves and thereby some of their flavor and heft—whereas colder waters help plumper, juicier oysters thrive.
While following the frost line can be a starting place for finding oysters at their peak, both the location and conditions in which oysters are grown play a huge role in determining each one’s quality. Like soil and sunlight to a wine’s terroir, a body of water’s temperature, algae, and minerals affect the oysters that grow there. (There’s even in recent years been a term, merroir, from the French word for “sea”, coined to describe the unique environmental factors that come into play with oysters.) All of this to say that part of the pleasure in lingering over an icy platter is in tasting the subtle differences between each.
Though only five species are native to the US, and most are further categorized by names reminiscent of the body of water they are harvested from (i.e., Wellfleets or Netarts Bays). Each has its own distinct shape, size, and taste—a further product of the way they’re farmed and processed in the country—but to generalize, expect brinier more delicate oysters in the Northeast; petite, deeper-pocketed, and more vegetal oysters in the Northwest; and big, meaty, and minerally oysters in the south.
Of course, there are as many kinds to choose from as there are places to eat them now. So the main thing you need to know about American oysters is where to go. Below, our ten picks for the best oyster bars across the country—legendary and new, and each with a flavor of its own.
Grand Central Oyster Bar - New York City
The grand dame of New York oyster destinations, this 1913 restaurant is located in the lower level of Midtown’s Grand Central Station—the oldest shop in the station. Beneath its gorgeously tiled ceiling, this cavernous room has history. Though the menu is expansive—some 30 types of oysters, plus about another two dozen seafood plates—a signature dish is the oyster pan roast, a spectacular (and spectacularly rich) old-school stew involving shucked Blue Points, paprika, and a veritable boatload of heavy cream. Set to reopen on September 7, 2021.
Found Oyster - Los Angeles
Opened in East Hollywood in 2019, this jewel of a raw bar quickly became everyone’s favorite place to say they’re going in LA. More Parisian in vibe than anything, with a big French wine list, walls lined with cookbooks, and oyster and clams set up like little jewels on mounds of ice, it’s also family owned. Pristinely fresh Little Namskaket oysters are flown in from GM Joe Laraja’s own family farm in Cape Cod, among others, and served with a jalapeño and cilantro mignonette. Chef Ari Kolender also has a menu that features fresh, raw littleneck clams, a raw uni service, a superb scallop tostada, crudo, natural wines and more, in cozy quarters with only 26 seats.
Nico - Charleston, SC
Lyon, France-born chef Nico Romo visited eight farms and hatcheries along the American East Coast for research purposes when planning his Shem Creek oyster bar (he dedicated a website to his adventures), and names his head shucker (Bella Macbeth) right on the menu. His cheerful, French-accented, wood-fired restaurant has a menu sourced largely from the lowcountry and multiple oysters from the Carolinas and Virginia, but the restaurant’s list extends to Maine, Prince Edward Island, Maryland and more. Beyond raw oysters, there’s a “remix” section featuring twists like the addition of caviar or tuna, or options like wood-roasted oysters gussied up with Camembert and merguez sausage, or Provencal-style parsley and garlic butter.
Westward - Seattle, WA
With one of the most scenic waterfront patios in the city, on docks at the northern shore of Seattle’s Lake Union, Westward reserves slips for guests who arrive by boat. Renee Erickson took over the menu a few years ago, and is always sure to include some lesser known names, like Summerstone oysters from Hama Hama on Skunk Island. Her sprawling seafood towers serve 12 to 18 of them alongside baja blue shrimp, gold whitefish caviar, raw geoduck clams, and salmon rillette. Baked oysters with garlic-ancho butter, half dungeness crabs with fresno butter, and Pacific octopus with piquillo aioli are variations on a theme.
