Surfers, in search of the next big break, unwittingly always discover the next boho beach scene whether it’s Sayulita, Mexico or Canguu, Bali. In turn, the cool creatives— hipster chefs, sustainable- minded hoteliers, cult yogis, digital nomads—follow suit, looking to find their own wedge of paradise. From Panama to Costa Rica to Peru, here are three hidden surf spots to book your next endless summer.
Bocas del Toro, Panama
Panama’s Caribbean archipelago of Bocas del Toro, or known by locals as simply Bocas, is a well-kept secret among surf legends like Kelly Slater and Sunny Garcia. In addition to its famous surf breaks, the islands, which are linked by water taxis, form a diverse landscape made up of mountains, rainforests and mangroves, pristine beaches and old school Caribbean towns. While new-age hippies and rowdy backpackers still populate Isla Colon’s Bocas Town and its surrounding islands, the recent influx of eco-lodges, like Nayara Bocas del Toro is signaling a new life for Panama’s unsuspecting surf spot.
Hotels
Until now, the archipelago’s hotels have been limited to small eco-lodges, providing more intimate accommodations across the string of islands. The new Nayara Bocas del Toro, situated on the private island of Frangipani, is idyllic not only by virtue of its own isolation but for its 16 overwater villas, 70-foot freshwater pool, the Elephant House restaurant and its very own white sand beach. Nayara has also just opened their two solar-powered luxury tree houses built from locally-sourced bamboo and reclaimed 500-year-old hardwood recovered from the floor of the Panama Canal. The interiors are whimsical at Sweet Bocas, a seven-room villa located in a quiet hamlet on Isla Colon, featuring colorful rattan furniture and an extensive library of art and design books. The estate has exclusive access to a 15-acre private island with a freshwater lake, organic gardens, a tented area for group dinners and a sculpture garden. Sol Bunaglow Bocas located on Isla Solarte, a laidback overwater bungalow hotel with thatched roofs, deck hammocks and direct access to the water perfect for some early morning snorkeling. The 55-acre La Loma is located in the heart of the Isla Bastimentos rainforest flanked between the mangroves and the tropical rainforest, providing epic vistas of the jungle and bay from each of the hand-crafted bungalows. As the property is located on a jungle farm, the hotel restaurant grows most ingredients directly on site, from spices and seeds like turmeric and cacao, to fruits and vegetables, such as bananas, plantains, pineapple and passion fruit.
Restaurants
Much of Bocas’ charms are more prevalent on the quieter surrounding islands. Octo is a casual Caribbean grill helmed by Panamanian chef Joseph Archbold, who worked at top restaurants in Paris before returning to open his own restaurant at his grandparent’s home in Bocas. Originally opened as a food truck, Octo’s kitchen experiments with charcoal cooking using local ingredients like ají and achiote. (Archbold also owns Receta Michilá which serves Caribbean fusion cuisine on Isla Carenero.) At the over-water island restaurant, The Blue Coconut on Isla Solarte, reggae music plays while you feast on a menu of casual fare like blackened fish sandwiches, fish tacos and coconut chicken served with a side of yucca fries. (Complimentary lounge chairs are available if you choose to spend the day here.) For some of the best fresh seafood and ceviche, head to Isla Carenero’s Bibi’s on the Beach or to Alvin & Kecha’s for an authentic Caribbean meal on Isla Bastimentos.
What to do
Avoid the tourist town of Isla Colon and spend your days exploring the more tranquil islands of Isla Carenero, Isla Bastimentos and Isla Solarte. While surfers head to Carenero Point and Black Rock surf breaks, beachgoers can lounge at Bibi’s or Carenero beach. For swimming, snorkeling, kayaking and paddle boarding, check out the more placid waters at Isla Solarte, the least populated island in Bocas; covered in thick rainforest, it’s also ideal for hiking. Isla Bastimentos is the largest island in the archipelago and the home of the small Afro-Caribbean town of Old Bank where colorful wooden homes frame the road that runs the entirety of the island. The community is filled with Jamaican descendants whose ancestors worked the banana plantains in the early 1900’s and still speak Gari Gari, their native Creole language. Visit Up in the Hill, a cacao and chocolate farm located on the highest point of the island. A muddy hike through the rainforest will lead you to the secluded and undeveloped Wizard Beach (for this reason, it’s best to visit during the dry season). At Polo Beach, calm and clear waters aren’t the only attraction. The beach is run by Polo, a beloved local who lives in a hut, supplying beer and coconuts and preparing his daily catch to serve for lunch. You can also take a private boat over to Cayos Zapatillas, the two uninhabited islands located off the far corner of Isla Bastimentos for snorkeling around the coral reefs.
Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
This rustic surf town on the Nicoya Peninsula on Costa Rica’s Pacific Coast is located in one of the world’s Blue Zones — a place where lifestyle and environment help people live longer. Perhaps this is why so many expats, from surfers to yoga enthusiasts, are drawn here to live the pura vida lifestyle, the national mantra for living the simple life. (It’s also a favorite hideaway for fashion folks and celebrities looking for a detoxing holiday.) While the area’s beaches — Playa Carmen, Mal Pais and Playa Hermosa — are known for their big surf breaks and wide, sandy stretches, the dense rainforest inland offers plenty of outdoor pursuits from horseback riding to ATV excursions. After all that thrill seeking, visitors can practice their asanas at one of the many yoga studios in town.
Hotels
When Florblanca opened nearly 12 years ago on the north side of town, it ushered in a wave of small, design-forward hotels. The hotel’s eight recently renovated one and two-bedroom villas feature open-air living spaces and oversized crocheted hammocks — the perfect perch to take in the soundscape of howler monkeys and other creatures. The rooms featured canopy beds with gauzy drapes and furniture made from local teak and cedar. The organic restaurant Nectar serves seasonal dishes like seared yellowfin tuna and Costa Rican casado with fresh fish. There’s also a spa, an open-air yoga dojo and a fully-equipped Pilates studio. For a more intimate experience nearby, Pasha Beachfront Estate is a new 10-room estate. The guesthouse has four bedrooms in the main house, two larger villas and an open-air living room, kitchen and pool nestled in the rain forest behind Playa Hermosa, which can be accessed via a private jungle path. Also in the north, you’ll find the minimally-designed Akwa Resorts, a white-washed case study-meets-cabana style hotel featuring four guest rooms, two villas and a lodge. There is a communal pool which is particularly idyllic at sunset. Mint Santa Teresa, an adults-only boutique hotel, has five guest rooms scattered across a hill overlooking the sea, each minimalist and decorated with locally-sourced wood furniture and works by Costa Rican artists.
Restaurants
Breakfast at The Bakery is a portal into the local scene here: surfers come for their fix of avocado toast and breakfast burritos before getting in their early morning rides. It’s all about the clean food lifestyle at places like Ani's and Somos Café and the newly opened Kaukau, which all serve up a variety of açaí, granola and poke bowls, with plenty of options for vegans. Opened by Scottish artist Sharon Ramsay, whose work is displayed throughout the space, Drift Bar’s eclectic menu specializes in vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, from coconut curry soup to poke bowls. For a no-frills meal with a community vibe, Eat Street is an open-air street food marketplace. Santa Teresa’s growing expat community has diversified the food scene, opening excellent Japanese-fusion restaurants like Koji’s, where the kitchen is helmed by a sushi master. Beneath Koji’s, in an open-air garden with black and white tiled floors and high ceilings, El Corazón serves vegetarian and vegan dishes like woodfired flatbreads and veggie dishes ideal for sharing, as well as craft cocktails, mocktails and beers. For live music head to Banana Beach or the new beach club, Blue Mist in Playa Hermosa.
