Among international travelers, France’s Atlantic coast has long been overshadowed by the country’s glitzier Mediterranean coastline along the French Riviera. With those sparkling Mediterranean waters, iconic Art Deco hotels, a predictably warm climate and beguiling Provençal towns, it’s not immediately apparent why travelers would have a reason to look elsewhere. 

Surely, I’ve fallen victim to some of those summer tropes over the years– especially after moving to Paris and having the French Riviera in my backyard. Though as temperatures, prices and over-tourism surge along France’s Mediterranean shores, making summer feel superficial, complicated or downright too hot, I became nostalgic for that simple, carefree spirit that defined the summers of my childhood on the Atlantic coast. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/mBXzRwEJqPEyOK7ThJixp/5e76d5aea0be1fd1d99818a64659f3fe/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_1.png"/><figcaption>The sweet simplicity of summer</figcaption></figure>

Growing up in a small coastal town in New England embedded in me this notion that summer should be simple. It should be about walking into a restaurant with sandy feet and no reservation; that exhilarating moment of finding an empty patch of sand on a crowded beach for basking all afternoon until perfectly sunkissed, then biking barefoot to pick up last-minute accouterments for a friend’s BBQ. 

So within my first year living in France, I was determined to reclaim that summer feeling, and found a version of what I was looking for in pockets of France’s western coast, in towns like Guéthary, Cap Ferret and Île de Ré– and while the familiarity of the Atlantic and a certain laid-back sensibility in these places certainly signaled a simpler summer spirit, it wasn’t until I discovered the sweet rhythm of the Vendée, a department in the Loire region in western France, situated just south of Brittany, that I felt summer’s sweet simplicity had truly been restored. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/6FTu0Fdfp6jCb8gshqJlwa/b33f17032e6feb750d7cce96adeff468/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_2.png"/><figcaption>The Corbeaux lighthouse commissioned in 1868 is located in the southeastern corner of Île d'Yeu</figcaption></figure>

Île d'Yeu, the smaller of the two Vendée islands (the larger being Noirmoutier) is best discovered by bicycle– the main mode of transportation here. Cycling through the island roads, there’s a smooth and easy rhythm that incites a childlike sense of wonder characterized by its lively port, a rural white-washed village with colorful shutters that feels straight out of a storybook, and 30+ beaches– from long, white sandy stretches to scenic coves flanked by cliffs with translucent water that, at times, rivals the Mediterranean but with the refreshing chill of the Atlantic. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/1BaUu63Ha26AUIMgE8IXVk/ceef0321633b512f0b46203d48495ea3/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_3.png"/><figcaption>Translucent waters at Plage de la Belle-Maison</figcaption></figure>

Much of the activity on Île d'Yeu unfurls around the island’s lively Port-Joinville in the north. As unassuming as it may appear, with the main strip lined with casual cafés and crepe spots (an influence of its neighboring Brittany), bike rental shops and a small daily market that’s open year-round selling local products, such as smoked fish from local canneries, as well as fresh vegetables and seafood, and prune jam– a local specialty here, ascending deeper into its labyrinth of backstreets, the island’s cultural nucleus reveals itself. Days on Île d'Yeu begin and end in Port-Joinville, flooded with a bevy of maritime home design shops and clothing boutiques– among them: Brigand des Mers, a young maritime brand helmed by three local friends who grew up on the island and were inspired by the unpredictable rhythm of the sea here, which led them to create a brand of stylish, but functional clothing and accessories for modern sailors and coastal inhabitants.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/3RjFl01Sz9EnI7LdWIyToc/e7c5c32ee6b87f60fea5e2fabf89049b/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_4.png"/><figcaption>The picturesque village of Saint-Sauveur and
the daily market at Port-Joinville open year-round
</figcaption></figure>

For an overview of the island’s rich fishing heritage, visitors can tour the Musée de la Pêche, where Jean-Michel, a former fisherman, serves as the official guide. After spending an afternoon on the beach, everyone returns to Port-Joinville in the evenings for a “night out”. For that, Port-Joinville offers a rich concentration of buzzy, casual restaurants and bars, such as BDM Café or L’escadrille for drinks, Snack Crêperie Martin for mussels and crepes, Ma Reserve Yeu for tapas on a rooftop terrace, and Les Bafouettes for the gourmands, who can feast on island specialties such as Banyuls foie gras and pan fried snails with chanterelles and boletus. 

The place to stay by the port is Les Hauts de Mers, a Domaine de Fontenille property located on the main road, just a five-minute walk from the port. The building embraces the traditional architecture of the island, blending in with the small white houses with colorful shutters typical here. Each of the 17 laidback, nautical-inspired rooms and suites contain private terraces– most even feature sea views overlooking Ker Chalon beach. A fragrant garden with native plants, including maritime pines and hydrangeas, surround the swimming pool. The Vent Debout restaurant invites both hotel guests and visitors, serving a seafood-focused menu that includes oysters from Fromentine, locally-caught sea bass and sea bream and fresh lobsters and clams, all served in a warm atmosphere that hosts live music in the summer months. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/3bLKv5TT07vdXv06HX2oap/40920bec36eeb84dcd8dc80634345911/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_5.png"/><figcaption>The pool at Les Hautes Mers complimented by rooms with cozy coastal interiors</figcaption></figure>

At the base of the picturesque village of La Meule, located a mere 15-minute bike ride from Les Hautes Mers, Domaine de Fontenille took over the iconic Bar de la Meule overlooking the tiny La Meule port flanked by two rocky cliffs lined with old fishing huts. Cycling through the quiet village punctuated with the island’s typical white homes, passing Le Vagabond– another classic stop for crepes– finally arriving at Bar de la Meule, with menu highlights that include moules-frites, a fresh scallop carpaccio and creamy samphire risotto. Following a short path along the small port, travelers can take a stroll towards the Chapelle de la Meule located at the edge of the rocky cliff. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/6bed2zCepXNocgB8kq5raP/68e78998d82cf54efb80e4de0acc5429/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_6.png"/><figcaption>The walls at Bar de la Meule are covered with old photographs and engravings illustrating fishing and marine life on the island while dishes like Couteaux à la persillade are on the menu</figcaption></figure>

Moving inland, the picturesque rural village of Saint-Sauveur, the ancient capital of the island with the traditional architecture still preserved here, forms around the Romanesque church, where a tiny stretch of lively cafés, shops and wine bars comprise the entirety of the village that has developed substantially post pandemic. While it would be a stretch to call it trendy, one feels the cool kids are here– or at the very least, making their way. In the late afternoon to early evening, cool, young crowds can be seen convening at La Dilettante (a wine bar), Frères de la côte (an oyster bar), and A l'abri des coups de mer (a bar tabac). Mornings are sleepier here, with foot traffic consolidated to the village’s beloved bakery, Pâtisserie Mousnier, where in-the-know patrons are queuing to stock up on the island’s signature prune tarte, baked goods and locally-made jams. In the summer months, Saint-Sauveur’s main street comes alive with market stalls selling local products from the island.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/1omYqXhwujA0A6pDlmOhE5/8c3c4f868afb73088063374384552694/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_7.png"/><figcaption>Chapelle de la Meule atop a cliff above the village of La Meule</figcaption></figure>

The arrival of La Mission, a playful 22-room boutique hotel, which is composed of a cluster of seven buildings– formerly a girls’ and boys’ primary school, is likely to drive more crowds to Saint-Sauveur as it features an all-day restaurant serving a wide variety of simple bistro-style fare appropriate for the whole family, a food truck open in the late afternoons, an outdoor pool, as well as a Nuxe spa. There’s a community feel here– one that integrates well with the community that’s beginning to form in the village of Saint-Sauveur as young locals open cafés, shops and restaurants in town. With La Mission’s rooftop and rum bar and various games spread across the property– from foosball and pool, to petanque courts and a children’s cabin, the hotel perfectly captures that youthful spirit of summer and the alluring simplicity of this idyllic island in the Vendée. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5iNBWJfWYGFzUW2U2MGJuD/581e86c39f2edbb0845e6189e9d10fd7/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_8.png"/><figcaption>At La Mission, bikes are available for guests to use at their leisure to explore the island</figcaption></figure>

### The Beaches: 
The best way to enjoy the dog days of summer on Île d'Yeu is by exploring its rugged coastline, with over 30 beaches, ranging from secluded coves nestled between cliffs to expansive sandy shores. The island's "wild coast" in the southwest resembles its neighboring Brittany with scenic rocky coves and majestic cliffside swims, while the eastern beaches appear much like the Vendée mainland it faces with long stretches of golden sand backed by dunes.

Plage des Sapins - Located near the main port, Sapins is one of the more popular beaches on the eastern side of the island. It offers a tranquil sandy shoreline with some rocky sections, shaded areas under trees, and calm waters.

Plage du Marais Salé - Plage du Marais Salé provides a wilder and more authentic setting away from the tourist path. The dunes surrounding the beach form natural shelters, creating quiet corners to relax, bask in the sun and the turquoise water. 

Plage de la Grande Conche - All the way in the southeast corner of the island by La Pointe des Corbeaux, Plage de la Grande Conche is a long, sandy and partially organized beach with umbrellas, tents and chairs available for rent.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/4DVZBJdMHDkUxSro5ZFz3s/b1bdfe69da41e3c3c2b6e6c0dcf09844/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_9.png"/><figcaption>Traditional fishing huts on the beach</figcaption></figure>

Plage des Soux - Plage des Soux is one of the wilder beaches in the southwest of the island situated within a small sandy cove flanked between two jagged cliffs. Its natural beauty and scenic hike down from the car park, as well as its translucent waters rivaling the Mediterranean make it one of the more popular beaches in the summer months. (For those looking for fewer crowds, head to Plage des Fontaines nearby.)

Plage des Vieilles - Also located in the southwest of the island is the long sandy beach of Plage des Vieilles, which is easily accessible and thus a popular destination for families as there are also lifeguards on duty during high season and nautical activities, like kayaking and watersports.  

Plage des Sabias - With direct views to the Vieux Château, which is just a 15 minute hike from the beach and a worthy detour, Plage des Sabias is a sandy beach lined with traditional white fishing huts and a snack truck located on the island’s western coast. 

Plage de la Belle-Maison & Sables Rouis - The coves on the other side of Vieux Château can be accessed by cycling through a sweeping field of yellow daisies. These small wild coves are wedged between jagged cliffs. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/60DspijmVrTjBWicOTahDl/f0e57fd356acc79c421f9c88d3ffa770/8.24.24_Ile_d_Yeu_body_10.png"/><figcaption>A beach on the wild coast of the island</figcaption></figure>
