2022 might as well be 1934. Looking around in any major city, you’d think Prohibition had just been repealed. From Manhattan’s fabled Bemelemans Bar at The Carlyle hotel to the late night lounges in Paris’s artsy Bellville neighborhood, crowds are lining up for a cocktail hour that lingers long into the night. These days, there’s a feeling of letting go and perhaps celebrating our resilient spirit together with a proper cocktail. (Or the more louche Dirty Shirley. Or a glass of natural wine. You get the idea.) Whether it’s the resurgence of the Martini, or pitchers of sangria, cocktails–and drinking in general–are back. Cities around the world are getting back to their favorite spots or checking out the new watering holes that are popping up. With all of these bars to hit, how does one decide where to go? Whether you crave something classic or cutting-edge, pick a theme for your night and stick with it.
MELBOURNE
According to Melbourne-based landscape architect Jen Lynch, some of her favorite bars are, well, a little hard to find. Inconspicuous stairs and unmarked entrances lead you into hidden worlds with immersive interiors and great drinks.
Cookie is a Thai restaurant and cocktail bar that’s on the second floor of an Art Deco building. “It's kind of hidden, you have to walk up these stairs or get in this scary old elevator,” says Lynch, but once inside, pair the excellent Thai food with one of the standout cocktails like the Penicillin (a gingery Scotch sour) or the Bloody Mary, which is topped with a “sculptural salad.”
For a more traditional cocktail experience, head to The Everleigh, which has a Victoriana vibe. Open since 2011, it was one of the first cocktail bars in Melbourne to champion the global cocktail revival of the last two decades. Fans of classic drinks will recognize familiar templates: variations on the Manhattan, Old-Fashioned, Rickey, Rob Roy, and Sour. But for more adventurous palates opt for the Monte Burns–a Rob Roy laced with Amaro Montenegro–or the Leave It To Me, a Daiquiri riff with raspberry and maraschino liqueur.
At Neighbourhood Wine, guests can enjoy a solid selection of natural wines in an old-school Italian-style setting. “It’s like a perfectly preserved speakeasy casino…it's like The Godfather.” Its unassuming entrance is on a side street and interior stairs lead up to the bar, where you’ll find a twenty-page wine list full of low-intervention, Australian, and European options, and a solid cocktail program. You could enjoy wines from notable European producers like Jean-François Ganevat or Domaine La Taupe, but why not take the opportunity to try the local wares? There’s an Australian bottle for every palate–try the Mac Forbes RS98 riesling, an orange wine called Cuvée Selene from Manon Farm, or an easy-drinking Shiraz-Cabernet blend called Lou Glou from South Australia’s Scintilla Winery.
MILAN
Known for its thriving aperitivo culture, most people associate Milan with spritzes, Negronis, and the like. But the birthplace of Campari is also home to a slew of great wine bars. Photographer Sam Youkilis and writer-editor MacKenzie Chung Fegan, an editor at Bon Appétit, shared some of their favorite places to drink.
Begin your night at Cantine Isola, a wine bar founded in 1896–with an old-school interior to match. Youkilis says it’s hands-down the best place to drink in Milan. You can order any wine off the shelf by the glass, including those from high-end producers like Emidio Pepe or Valentini. To choose a wine, peruse the wall lined with bottle shelves and read the tickets under each shelf to make your choice. The bar is located in Chinatown, across the street from a great dumpling place called Ravioleria Sarpi. Bonus: Cantine Isola welcomes patrons to bring food into the bar. the bar offers a range of wines for any drinker, from low-intervention options to traditional wines, at a variety of price points. For the classic Cantine Isola experience, enjoy a glass at the standing bar while snacking on the aperitivo spread.
Then head to Vinoir in Navigli, just south of Porta Genova. Situated on the canal, It’s a great place to enjoy a pleasant meal al fresco–don’t miss the pasta with fava beans and guanciale. The simple pasta dishes and cheese plate were delicio. Vinoir specializes in highlighting small artisanal producers from around Italy. and beyond, and offers service six nights a week as well as educational programming for wine lovers. Go for the Sa Defenza, a vermentino from Sardinian producer Sacava, or Cascina Tavijn’s Bandita, a barbera produced in Piedmont by Nadia Verrua, whose family has been running their vineyard for a century.
