A 19th century ghost town sits in the middle of a remote alpine valley dotted with lithium-rich hot springs. The setting would be the perfect backdrop for a wintry Hollywood thriller or a contemporary take on the Western, if it weren’t already the Dunton Hot Springs, a quietly sophisticated 14-cabin property in Colorado that’s garnered something of a cult following among luxury devotees. Private hot springs, a cozy, wood-paneled library, and opportunities for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and ice climbing are just part of the property’s complete winter wonderland fantasy.
The Check In
Arrival at Dunton Hot Springs is not unlike pulling into a family ranch. A central Saloon operates as hotel lobby, bar, dance hall, and restaurant, where the two-hour drive from the Durango airport or Telluride is eased by a local beer at the reclaimed bar by the entry. Look for the etched-in signatures of former travelers like Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, to get you in an appropriately Western mood. (Legend has it that Butch Cassidy hid out in Dunton en route to his hide-out after robbing a bank in Telluride.) The small mining town of Dunton was established in 1885, and deserted by 1919. At its peak, it consisted of a natural hot spring and smattering of log cabins stretching for about a mile along the West Dolores River. The spring and remaining abandoned cabins went on to serve as a ghost town-turned-free relaxation spot for local Coloradoans. Dunton Hot Springs’ present owners, Christoph Henkel and his wife Katrin Bellinger, purchased the 1,600 acre property in 1994 and spent seven years reinventing it, updating and installing a series of interior designer-outfitted reclaimed mining cabins that were either revived on site or retrieved and reconstituted from around the country.
The Look
Each cabin is equipped with heated slate floors and rustic rugs, cozy beds, and time-worn antiques. The main saloon and bar are heavy on the feeling of being at home on the range. Guests traverse short open air paths from their cabins to the saloon, hot spring-fed bathhouse, library, yoga studio/spa, and gym, under a glorious panoramic view of the nearby San Juan mountain range. There is also a freestanding library, which is the perfect spot to while away a few hours in between dips in the hot springs and expertly planned outdoor adventures, with ample leather club chairs, a big fireplace, and two floors of books.
The Rooms
There are twelve handbuilt cabins and one tent, each with its own distinct character. Bjoerkmans is one of the oldest cabins on the property, named for the miner who built it; Vertical Log is constructed out of big vertical cottonwood timbers; The Dunton Store was formerly the town’s general store, and now is a two-floor cabin filled with Western film memorabilia. The Well House is typically the most in-demand, as it’s the only cabin with a private hot spring, though the rest are mere steps away from the Bath House’s panoramic views and lithium-rich hot spring. Many cabins are original to Dunton, and all are arranged around the central saloon. Most of the rooms have fireplaces, and many are pet-friendly. They have all been updated with Persian rugs, plaid sofas, and wooden bed frames, and bear excellent views of the nearby mountains and snow-covered meadows.
Food and Drink
Hot coffee is delivered in tin milk crates to your cabin in the morning, which is the extent of room service. Special arrangements can be made for in-room dining, if preferred, but unless guests are out on expeditions, they eat together in the Saloon at one long table, three times a day, in a convivial, community setting. The menu changes daily, based on what’s fresh and available from local purveyors; menus may include smoked trout, pork tacos, grilled lamb, a heaping bowl of their famous granola. The kitchen has been known to accept suggestions, but the smart move is to stay open to their (uniformly excellent) Coloradoan delights.
Check Out
Dunton offers several ways to fulfill one’s wintry countryside fantasies: sleigh rides, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, ice climbing, spa treatments, a yoga studio, boxing gym, or a curled-up reading session inside its jewel box of a library. For those craving downhill skiing, Telluride is a two-hour drive away; there, Dunton operates a separate hotel, Dunton Town House, that’s steps from the ski lift. (Make arrangements in advance.) Guests would be forgiven, however, for forgoing a drive in favor of soaking in the iron, manganese, and lithium-rich natural hot springs on the property. It’s what Butch and the Sundance Kid would do. Probably.
