Careyes is no resort town. The first thing you notice upon arrival in this Jalisco compound about 100 miles south of Puerto Vallarta are various signs with just a question mark and an exclamation point: ?! You soon realize that’s actually the Careyes logo, and it’s designed to mimic the first impressions of most visitors: a bit confused, then delighted. When the free-spirited Italian banker Gian Franco Brignone bought the land in 1968, his vision was to create a sort of mythical Eden that’s as vivid and eccentric as it is worldly and luxurious. The result feels a bit like a portal to the Age of Aquarius. His otherworldly cobalt villa, Mi Ojo— named for the graphic pair of eyes painted on the exterior— was the first on Careyes and set the tone for the rest of the properties. During construction, Brignone had black magnetic sand mixed into the concrete for its “magical protection.” Gian Franco’s son, Filippo, currently lives in Tigre del Mar, which is owned by the Brignone family, a blue-hued Careyes landmark whose library is dubbed Tres Mil (“three thousand”), the year Brignone believes aliens will arrive. (It even features a ladder that leads to a bottle of tequila, so the aliens can have a shot and learn about humans through their books.) From above, you can find the Careyes logo, ?!, painted on Tigre del Mar’s roof, designed to herald aliens upon their inevitable arrival. Meanwhile, Copa del Sol, a UFO-like concrete womb where people meditate, perform soundbaths, and watch the sun set, is the embodiment of the Careyes ethos, a character-rich, multilingual, and design-conscious community with respect for one another’s privacy. (Only about two percent of the area is built on, and the Burning Man-like five-day music festival that happens there, called Ondalinda, remains invitation-only, to maintain the mystery.)
There are only seven restaurants, three shops and no full-scale hotels in Costa Careyes, whose craggy coastline stretches across 12 miles of empty beach. Instead, most visitors take advantage of the peace and quiet by posting up in one of the 65 houses on the compound, whose architecture melds mid century geometry, pre-Columbian Mexican design, and breezy Mediterranean style. Many of them are rentable, fully staffed, and helmed by leading names in the world of art and design. Between its bougainvillea-adorned cliffs, sweeping views of the sparkling Pacific, and Dayglo-painted villas that lie somewhere between The Jetsons and the Greek Isles, Careyes offers enough bohemian wonder to raise the vibrations of even the most straight-edged traveler.
Ocean Castle Sol de Occidente
A 360-degree infinity pool functions like a moat around this fully-staffed, six-bedroom ocean castle, which overlooks the Playa Careyitos jungle and its sun-yellow twin villa, Ocean Castle Sol de Oriente. A massive Palapa roof sits in the middle of the star-like villa, with its sharp, jagged lines that create dozens of nooks and crannies throughout the property. An underground movie theater and avocado-green exterior add to the whimsy of the architecture, designed by Brignone himself with architect Diego Villasenor.
Casa Nautilus
Designer Sophie Harvey is behind this four-bedroom villa, with architects Lorena and Alex Possenbacher, whose winding staircases and wide arched windows mimic the flow of the neighboring ocean. But the nautical influence is tastefully minimal and tasteful, with a pale pink exterior and palapa-covered terrace with plenty of seating for guests, from built-in curved sofas lined with pink striped pillows to leather-sling chairs, along with graphic ceramic lamps by Brussels-born French artist Georges Pelletier. A massive Joan Miró-esque mural floats above the dining table, which can seat ten.
Casa Parasol
Casa Parasol is a more subdued affair than the other castle-like properties, though equally luxurious. With muted pink lime washed walls and organic shapes, it’s a Barbie Dreamhouse by way of Mexico City. Recently remodeled and designed by architect Duccio Ermenegildo and Mexico City-based designer Antoine Ratigan, Casa Parasol marries California modern and Mexican craft heritage; marble mushroom lamps, antique clay crafts, and linen sunbeds with taupe striped blankets make for an aesthete’s dream, all light and shadow. The multilevel, five-suite villa overlooking the jewel-toned Double Crescent Bay also comes with a cinema room, wifi, and an unrivaled staff and concierge team.
Casa Torre
A golden winding staircase brings guests from this sherbet-hued villa designed by Mexican architect Diego Villaseñor directly to the Playa Rosa beach. A Franco-American art-collecting couple is behind the mod interiors, which are filled with whimsical sculptures and eclectic furniture; a rattan monkey holds up a console with candles and a flower vase, while the pergola dining table outside doubles as a game table. Augusto, the house manager, is Italian, so the food on offer by the kitchen staff is a fusion of both Italian and Mexican cuisine.
Nido de Amor
The most intimate private villa in Careyes, the three-suite Nido de Amor is built into the side of a tropical cliff, its electric blue walls and Palapa-covered roof framed by lush greenery. Designed by Jean Claude Gailibert, this villa features a private infinity pool, which appears to spill into the sea directly below it, while multi-tiered rooftop terraces are perfect for sun or moon-bathing. Meditators, meanwhile, can head to the private grotto for a true escape. Or lounge under a white canopy on an ornate antique wooden cabana, flanked by high-back wicker chairs with views of the sea.
Casa Selva
True to its name, this seven-bedroom villa is inspired by the surrounding rainforest, bringing the environment into the interior with organic woods, thatched roofs, and wide-open living and dining areas. Curved whitewashed walls and abstract expressionist art complete the organic appeal, while a tropical garden filled with birds means guests can listen to light birdsong throughout the day. A row of sunbeds faces the infinity pool and a view of the ocean that includes hunks of rock formations and a cliff dotted with colorful casitas.
