The art of old-fashioned country baking occupies a hallowed place in Australia’s cultural psyche. In the 1920s, stout-hearted rural women founded The Country Women’s Association, an advocacy group aimed at improving the health and wellbeing of families in isolated regional outposts. They became known for their ‘rest rooms’, community halls where the hardworking wives of graziers, stockmen and farmers could let their children play while they shared stories over a cup of tea and a scone. Those scones, and other comforting treats like cakes, puddings and preserves, were made to tried-and-true recipes, passed down from mother to daughter. Even today, all Australians know that a genuine CWA recipe, properly followed, guarantees the flakiest pastry and the fluffiest sponge crumb. Thanks at least in part to these pioneering women, country bakeries are cherished by Australians, and every true Aussie road trip involves pulling over somewhere dusty and out-of-the-way for a meat pie, a neenish tart or a lamington. Here’s where to find the best:
Black Cockatoo Bakery, Katoomba NSW
No one comes to Australia without trying the country’s divisive, tar-black yeast spread, Vegemite (hint: scrape it very thinly onto good quality bread with lashings of butter). Oomite, a Byron Bay-based artisan brand - is its more refined cousin, and it can be sampled at this Blue Mountains' bakery in their famous cheddar and Oomite scroll, a savory, coiled, butter-rich pastry.
Gumnut Patisserie, Mittagong NSW
No one is entirely sure of the origin of Neenish tarts, though one theory is that its half pink, half black icing gave them a name that’s short for ‘In-Between-ish’. What is agreed is that these teeth-tighteningly sweet pastries - often filled with gelatin-set cream - are an Australian classic. The ones at Gumnut Patisserie in the NSW Southern Highlands are a touch more genteel than their school fete forebears: filled with raspberry jam and buttercream and stamped with the mysterious word ‘Neenish’ on top.
Rick’s Artisan Pies and Sourdough, Noosaville Queensland
Pastry-hunters arriving at this locally-loved bakery on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast have often been led to believe they’ve taken a wrong turn, because Rick’s sits in the forecourt of a ‘servo’ - the Australian word for a gas or petrol station. Join the queues of tradies - local plumbers, electricians, builders etc - who know this is the best place around for flaky meat pies, jam donuts and sourdough baguettes stuffed with cold meats and salads.
Birdsville Bakery, Birdsville Queensland
The red dust, knobbly tree-trunk fence posts and corrugated tin roof are hallmarks of this bighearted country bakery in the center of the Outback, as is the warm country hospitality. A meat pie and a tinny - that’s a cold can of beer - is the classic combo here but for a true taste of the local fauna, ask for that meat pie to be filled with curried camel, an animal that roams Australia’s most remote and arid corners.
Clare Rise Bakery 1895, Clare South Australia
Biking all or some of the 35km Clare Valley Riesling Trail is one of the loveliest ways to explore South Australia’s riesling stronghold. This family bakery, housed in a rust-red cottage between Kirrihill Wines and Tim Adams Wines, is a good place to prop the two-wheeler for a breather. Order a flat white and either their ‘beerbatta’ ciabatta, made with stout from Pikes Brewery or their chicken and riesling pie, and take them outside to soak up some patio sunshine.
Richmond Bakery, Richmond Tasmania
Meat-loving mainlanders can be sceptical of Tasmania’s signature pastry: the curried scallop pie. Does delicate seafood really deserve to be entrapped by pastry and gloopy curry? Their skepticism is likely to increase if they chance upon a bad one, made with mushy shellfish imports, which are a common disappointment if you don’t know where to look. Those from the bakery at Richmond, around 20 km northeast of Hobart, are a solid bet; made by hand using fresh local scallops, with a curry powder flavour packed with mid-century nostalgia. They’re best followed with a lamington chaser - a sponge cake coated with chocolate and coconut.
Country Cob Bakery, Kyneton Victoria
The pies at this spa country town win so many pastry plaudits that its competitors must wonder if they ever stand a chance. The classic steak is a great bet but their seafood pie is also worthy of investigation. It’s on the menu as “fish amok pie” and it’s a tribute to the bakery’s Cambodian owners, brothers Ryan and Chan Khun. Similar to the classic Khmer amok trei curry, this one is made with Australian barramundi - a fish that’s equal parts ugly and delicious - coconut cream and spices.
