The Greek capital is often overlooked, deemed by travelers as a mere layover stop before reaching the much-anticipated islands. Yet the ancient city of Athens has much more to offer than a visit to the Acropolis, and the world is starting to take note. Now home to a host of minimalist boutiques, bustling culinary markets, and labyrinthine garden oases to get lost in, Athens is as dynamic as ever, offering— amidst the urban shuffle— ample opportunities to get away from it all.
To Stay
Esperinos
On the foot of Philopappos Hill lies an abandoned home-turned-one-bedroom property that is as intimate as it is chic. The residence, located in the eclectic neighborhood of Koukaki, features a palette of muted earth tones, a pine-covered sleeping loft, rare designer furniture, and a collection of eclectic artwork. The hidden backyard recalls the neighborhood’s heyday in the 1960s, when artists and folk musicians would gather and swap stories outside their bohemian homes.
Cycladica
After setting up a set of idyllic cave house properties in Oia, Santorini, owners Laskarina and Yannis decided to bring the concept of slow island living to the big city. The result is an enchanting cottage in the Anafiotika, a small, hilly “island-village” on the foot of the Acropolis that could be mistaken for a town floating above the Aegean. The property is tucked away, hidden in a maze of bougainvillea-draped alleys. The airy interior, with lime-washed walls, modern appliances, (there’s a Smeg fridge) and pops of color throughout, is the ideal place to sack out after a day at the ruins.
Ergon House
A few meters from the ancient Agora, you’ll find Ergon House, an enormous Greek atrium market with butchers, bakers, and fishmongers, as well as a vertical garden. Above, there are several spare guest rooms with access to communal kitchens and lounge areas, plus a rooftop terrace with breathtaking views of the nearby Acropolis.
Mona
A revamped eight-story textile factory from the 1950s, Mona sits in the pulsing heart of downtown Athens, surrounded by restaurants, bars, and cultural sites. As the urbanite little sister of Shila, a bohemian guest house in Kolonaki, Mona’s rooms are both industrial and romantic, with daybeds, antique pendant lights, and deep soak tubs. The airy, loft-like lobby has become a city hub, bringing together the city’s young creative class.
To Shop
Hyper Hypo
This one-of-a-kind design and art bookshop opened last fall as the brainchild of former New York-based stylist Andreas Kokkino and his partner, the graphic designer Stathis Mitropoulos. The bright blue walls are filled with shelves of art, photography and design books and periodicals as well as objects like lamps, ceramics, and totes. Fittingly, the shop’s name is a reference to the founders’ philosophy of selling goods both “high” and “low.”
It’s a Shirt
It’s a Shirt is exactly what it sounds like; there are no seasonal trends here, just shirts in every fabric (denim, Italian cotton) in classic shapes that look good on every gender. Each piece is produced in a family-run factory in Athens, with collections kept to a limited set of maximum fifteen items. Slow fashion at its finest. As the brand website states, “It is what it is.”
Savapile
There are several traditional hat shops in the Psirri area (known for its artisanal ateliers), but down a small alley, you’ll find the most forward-thinking among them— an independent workshop where Lisa Sarigiannidou continues her father’s hat-making craft. Sarigiannidou uses her father’s original molds but tweaks her designs with different ribbons and trimmings, making for a chic mode of protection against the Grecian sun. It’s best to call before you pay a visit; chances are, she can make you a custom fit.
