Paris can sometimes feel like it’s stuck in a historical bubble— the most beautiful one at that. But post-pandemic, the French capital feels more vibrant than ever— a quasi youthquake is upon the city. For all the tourists lining up at museums and or crowding the deck on the Bateaux Mouche, there are plenty of young Parisians picnicking (and partying) along the Seine or lingering in the cafes and bars in buzzy neighborhoods like the Pigalle and Belleville.

But perhaps the biggest surprise is the revival of central Paris with the opening of Samaritaine, the department store which LVMH’s Bernard Arnault spent 16 years renovating to its Belle Epoque glory. Not to be outdone, Francois Pinault opened his formidable art collection in the Bourse de Commerce, the city’s former stock exchange. The battle of these billionaires to add a modern patina to the city has created a ripple effect in what sometimes felt like one of the city’s more staid arrondissements. Here, a guide for your next visit to the heart of Paris’ right bank.

Bourse de Commerce–Pinault Collection

The 18th-century building that once housed Paris’ corn and grain exchange evolved to become the Paris Stock Exchange—or “Bourse de Commerce”—and is now home to billionaire and Kering founder Francois Pinault’s contemporary art collection.

The latest iteration, inaugurated in 2021, was preceded by a major redesign by Pritzker Prize-winning Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who both retained some of the original architectural features and infused the space with a contemporary feel.

The newly added 30-foot-tall concrete cylinder, under the building’s soaring cupola and the 360-degree 19th-century mural, creates a dialogue between the past and the present. Bathed with natural light, there’s no better space for taking the monumental works of artists like American sculptor Charles Ray and French mixed media artist Philippe Parreno.

Sainte Anne Gallery

Located in the 2nd arrondissement on the Rue Sainte Anne, among scores of busy Japanese restaurants, the unassuming Sainte Anne Gallery is a meeting point between art, design, and the natural world. Opened by Bianca Lee Vasquez and Masha Novoselova in 2021, the gallery features both established and rising artists, including the textile artist Joana Schneider, and painter and sculptor Berta Blanca. And to (literally) breathe life into the space, the gallerists place potted plants among the art objects and design pieces.

Post du Louvre

The 19th-century post office on the Rue du Louvre historically had one function—mail service—and was largely closed to the public despite its immense size (32,000 square meters). La Poste began a sweeping transformation of the building in 2015, to open the space both physically and conceptually to the public. Unveiled in 2022, the Post du Louvre is now home to the new Hôtel Madame Rêve—featuring a design that’s at once traditional Parisian (chevron wood floors) and modern (sleek wood-paneled walls), replete with an elegant Japanese-inspired restaurant with panoramic views, La Plume—as well as a shopping center, a rooftop bar, and, of course, a modern, functional post office.

Balagan

Guests can dine on Mediterranean dishes like deconstructed kebab and lamb “Al Ha'esh” with clear views of the open kitchen where Israeli chefs Assaf Granit and Uri Navon are hard at work. While reservations may be hard to come by, the more intimate cocktail bar is walk-in only. Here you can order from the same menu while sipping a Sassy French (with tequila añejo, eau de vie de cidre, and absinthe) or Le Persifleur (with gin and elderberry cordial) with the occasional call-to-action from the bartenders for a communal shot to a chorus of “L’chaim!” Plan to stay late.

Samaritaine

In June of 2021, the inauguration ceremony of La Samaritaine, Paris’ legendary department store, was accompanied by no small amount of fanfare (both President Emmanuel Macron and Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo were in attendance). The department store forms part of a larger reimagined complex that was renovated over the course of 16 years, retaining some of the building’s original Art Deco features and incorporating modern elements, like an undulating glass façade designed by the Pritzker-prize-winning Japanese firm Sanaa.

Besides being an architectural wonder, the 7-floor department store features over 600 brands, from Jacquemus to Jimmy Choo, 12 eateries, concept stores “Loulou” and “Rivoli,” as well as the largest beauty section in continental Europe. For history buffs, tours are available.

Plénitude

In French cuisine, the word “sauce” typically brings to mind the age-old mother sauces. At Plénitude, the remarkably unstuffy three-Michelin-star restaurant in Paris’ new Hotel Cheval Blanc, Chef Arnaud Donckele makes a compelling case for sauces that transcend tradition rather than religiously adhering to it. With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Seine, the room feels as bright as the champagne mousse served atop a single raw oyster, accented by fresh fennel and anise broth; as thoughtful as the “ode à l'iode” sauce, developed over the course of eight years and drizzled over a sea potato. Choose between the 6-course Symphony menu — “a symphonic composition of sauces in six acts” or the more improvisational Sail Away Together menu, where you can choose three savory and one sweet dish, with wine pairing options for both.

Liza

In the 2nd arrondissement, just a five-minute walk to the Palais Royal gardens, the lively Lebanese restaurant Liza has become somewhat of an institution. Diners can enjoy regional classics like colorful mezze spreads, the silky hummus, and the juiciest beef shawarma, in the Middel Eastern modern setting— think: gold hues, vases overflowing with mimosas, and a mural of palm trees. Don’t miss the ethereal Lebanese baklava.

Château Voltaire

Around the corner from the palatial hotels of Place Vendôme, you’ll find Château Voltaire, a 33-room hotel that feels more like a tastefully designed guest house. Created by Thierry Gillier, co-founder of Zadig & Voltaire, the property leans into the château vibes—sumptuous carpets and handcrafted wooden furniture— but with a decidedly modern feel. The Brasserie Emil and bar La Coquille have become the fashion world’s new favorite hangout.

Nolinksi Hotel Spa

A few steps from the Palais Garnier opera house, there’s an elegant, subterranean spa (from Swiss brand La Colline) tucked away in the Nolinski Hotel. It’s the ideal spot to unwind with facial or massage, followed by a healthy sweat in the sauna and steam room. Then, take a dip in the 16-meter pool, which is illuminated by candlelight.