Which Ski Resort in the French Alps are You?

A guide to the region, and its most sumptuous, storied lodgings.

Category:Places
Words by:Monica Mendal
PublishedOctober 12, 2024

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With the exception of Courchevel, historically considered the polestar for a glamorous European ski holiday, ski resorts in the French Alps have long been overshadowed by the profusion of dynamic resorts across Switzerland, such as Verbier, St. Moritz, Zermatt and Gstaad. And yet, France remains home to the biggest swaths of land, namely The 3 Valleys — where the famous Courchevel is located. Today, the abundance of land and promise of cooler temperatures given its optimally high altitudes have been seducing hotel brands and restaurateurs to the lesser-known resorts, where they’ve begun planting roots and increasing tourism to some of these more untapped corners of the Alps. More evidence of the region’s awakening is the unveiling of Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express’s new route which will feature stops in Megève, Mont Blanc, The 3 Valleys, and Tignes-Val d’Isère come March 2025, making it easier to access these snow-sure resorts direct from Paris. While some ski resorts in the French Alps are more primed for tourism than others, large investments and an increase in capital are beginning to take shape here. All to say: if there was ever a time to go and swerve the crowds, it’s now.

Below are the best ski resorts in the French Alps to visit this winter.

Val d’Isère: Best all around Who it’s for: Everyone

It’s easy to understand why Val d’Isère has become everyone’s favorite ski resort in France. Its bounty of offerings across both ski, accommodations, and dining presents wide-range appeal. One of the largest and highest ski resorts in France, Val d’Isère’s snow-sure pistes and extended season spanning November through May makes skiing here first-rate. What makes Val d’Isère particularly revered is that it offers something for everyone: from the challenging Face de Bellevarde, a steep World Cup slope that debuted in the 1992 Winter Olympics, to gentler wide open terrain for beginners in the Solaise ski area. Beyond skiing, Val d’Isère has always been a wellspring of casual self-catering chalets, but over the past few years the resort welcomed a bevy of new hotels, from luxury stays, to cool affordable boutique properties that cater to families and groups of friends alike. This advent of new accommodations also renewed the resort’s dining scene, with renowned restaurants like Loulou and Matsuhisa opening sister properties here — blending well with its trove of old-timey Savoyard spots and vibrant nightlife scene.

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A suite at Val d'Isère

Where to stay: The opening of Airelles Val d'Isère set the stage for Val d’Isère’s transformation from a laid-back skiers paradise to an international port of call for winter enthusiasts and gourmands. Situated at the base of the mountain as the only luxury hotel to offer ski-in-ski-out access, Airelles Val d’Isère beckons a new energy to the area, articulated through its various culinary offerings on and off the property, including offshoots of beloved Paris restaurant Loulou, to chef Nobu’s Matsuhisa. Following in its wake is Experimental Val d’Isère, slated to open this December, which will inevitably bring its own brand of cool to the burgeoning ski resort with two restaurants and the sixth Experimental Cocktail Club for the après ski set. For a unique stay that offers total immersion into nature, Le Refuge de Solaise is located at the top of the mountain of Solaise set inside an old cable car station only accessible by gondola.

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The dining room at Loulou at Les Airelles Val d'Isère

Courchevel: Most over-the-top glamour Who it’s for: Scene lovers with deep pockets

Courchevel, the most famous resort in The 3 Valleys — and also the glitziest — has become a hotbed for the world’s uber rich. For years, Courchevel has relied on its droves of Russian oligarchs who’d ascend to its snowy peaks, willfully paying premiums for decadent lobster lunches, slopeside designer shops, and uber luxury stays. Though with the sanctions imposed on Russia’s elite in the immediate aftermath of Putin's war on Ukraine, Courchevel’s biggest spenders have retreated elsewhere, leaving Courchevel somewhat void of its usual crowds. Though to be sure, luxury travelers and gourmands still have their share of Michelin starred restaurants to choose from and plenty of high end shops and luxury hotels at which to spend their money. Beyond the glitz, the resort is optimally located within The 3 Valleys, though with six of its own unique ski villages to explore (Saint-Bon, Courchevel le Praz, Courchevel la Tania, Courchevel Village, Courchevel Moriond, and Courchevel 1850), there’s plenty of slopes to cover for the few that actually come to Courchevel to ski.

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