In subtle Japan, the simplicity of life in the countryside is as thrilling as the technicolor aggregations of Tokyo.

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In subtle Japan, where the simplicity and refinement of life in the countryside are as thrilling as the technicolor aggregations of Tokyo, centuries-old traditions—influenced by philosophies rooted in Zen and an ancient reverence for nature and the seasons—blend effortlessly with what also feels like life in the future. Stay in a family-run *machiya* in the southernmost tip of Kyushu and soak in an *onsen* on top of a skyscraper in the capital, which looks up to the stars. And the best part? All of these experiences are possible in one trip, thanks to the county’s immaculate *shinkansen* network, which makes traversing the island-nation seamless and efficient.

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__This article is part of a Kyoto story collection, each story exploring a cultural expression emblematic of the Japanese city. The other two stories deep dive on [machiya](https://priorworld.com/editorial/the-soft-earthen-magic-of-machiya) and [kaiseki](https://priorworld.com/editorial/edible-art-shaped-by-the-seasons).__

The word kimono is a deceptively simple term for Japan’s national dress. Literally meaning “thing to wear,” the garment is unique in both craft and appearance, and has been worn in various iterations by people in Japan for over a thousand years. Decorated with scenes of snow-white cranes, blizzards of cherry blossoms, maple leaves, or ocean waves, the most eye-catching fabrics are as close to wearable art as fashion gets. And unlike Western clothing, which is designed to give shape to the body (think of the shoulder-enhancing structure of a Savile Row suit, or even the cut of a T-shirt), the kimono is designed in a much more 2D fashion, responding to the body by wrapping and draping around it.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/akUqn9OO6rsinRgB7wZun/c25ca8c466580a8659e908c186d39483/4.5.25-Only_In_Kyoto_Kimono_body_1.png"/><figcaption>A view of maru obi, the longest and most formal style of the kimono's obi (belt).</figcaption></figure>

“Think of origami: you can make all different kinds of things with the same shaped piece of paper because you’re wrapping it around that shape. That’s what kimono does,” says Dr Sheila Cliffe, a Tokyo-based kimono expert and the author of The Social Life of Kimono. The Brit often wears one herself, and says it is the most flattering of garments. “It can fit any body type perfectly, and because the shape doesn’t change, everything is about the colours and patterns.”

To experience kimono yourself, arguably nowhere is better than Kyoto. Japan’s former capital, with its lantern-strewn cobbled streets, rustic teahouses and old-world charm, is known as the source of kimono culture. It’s also where a number of truly impressive crafting techniques (such as Yuzen dyeing and decorative Nishijin weaving) emerged. Indeed, some of Kyoto’s kimono purveyors have been in the city for centuries.

Though the popularity of kimonos has waxed and waned, there’s been a kimono resurgence among younger people in recent years. “When I first came here in 1985, everybody wore suits to graduate,” says Cliffe, who teaches at a women’s university. “Now, almost all of them wear kimono.” Japan’s tourism boom has seen kimono-wearing become much more prevalent, too, with a wealth of rental shops catering to visitors who want to experience the garments first-hand.

Nowadays most people reserve their kimonos for special occasions, but Cliffe sees the everyday appeal, and dons one of her colourful kimonos three or four times a week. “Wearing kimono is a really nice way to get into the culture,” says Cliffe. “Just like you learn by eating the food or seeing the architecture, you learn something by wearing it.” When looking to rent or buy your own kimono, beware of thin-looking polyester, advises Cliffe. Instead, seek places that offer kimonos with a lining, and that have been made in Japan.

Whether you want to wear a kimono or admire them, Kyoto is full of reliably excellent options. From kimono-clad geisha apprentices serving tea to modern kimono-inspired shops and museums showcasing breathtaking fabrics, the city is full of places to immerse yourself deep in kimono culture. Here are ten of them.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/15IPLcwJDh64FHD2Hktl27/c90fdeafac877f054146bfc1a0a0558c/4.5.25-Only_In_Kyoto_Kimono_body_2.png"/><figcaption>Delicate Kimono craftsmanship, courtesy of Y. & SONS.</figcaption></figure>

### Where to Learn About Kimono Craft and Culture in Kyoto

[Y. & Sons](https://www.yandsons.com/): With a flagship in Tokyo’s Kanda Shrine and an outpost in Kyoto, Y. & Sons is a tastefully minded store that aims to bring kimono-style clothing into the 21st century. The Kyoto store features a selection of clothing and accessories that focuses mostly on menswear (its kimonos come in subdued and sophisticated neutral shades), but also offers a bespoke kimono service that can be used by anyone.

[Antiques Kimono Lily](https://www.antiqueskimonolily.com/): Selling a wide but well-curated range of vintage kimonos and antiques, this affordable spot offers an excellent introduction to kimono for men and women, with a team of knowledgeable and famously friendly staff on hand to offer advice and recommendations.

[Eitarou Gentleman’s Kimono](https://eitarouya.com/): A bespoke kimono tailor for men, Eitarou is nestled in a peaceful tatami room in central Kyoto, and offers a choice of fabrics and obi (kimono belts) to choose from. Kimonos take just one fitting, after which they take around a month to make, and can be shipped internationally.

[Chiso Gallery](https://www.chiso.co.jp/en/honten/gallery/): Chiso has been producing textiles since 1555, making it one of the world’s oldest companies. The Kyoto-based purveyor, which has made kimonos for the royal family and is known for its yuzen-dyeing techniques (where exquisite designs are painted onto fabric), also operates a gallery, where guests can see a small selection of exceptional kimonos and learn more about the history behind the garments.
*Free admission, closed on Wednesdays*

[Maikoya Tea Ceremony Experience](https://mai-ko.com/culture/tea-ceremony/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw7pO_BhAlEiwA4pMQvIZfC4WqRUKMAae9F0qu0qhVpTbqeqV2PPdIXB_41GmGEhU8l0yXShoC-SIQAvD_BwE): Centrally located but tucked away from the tourist traps, Maikoya is an old teahouse in Kyoto that offers guests a range of traditional Japanese experiences including meetings with maiko (apprentice geisha), tea ceremonies, and the opportunity to rent kimonos exploring the streets of Gion.
*Tea ceremony with kimono costs $48*

[Gallery Shiorian](https://www.kyoto-museums.jp/en/museum/north/3921/): Nestled in a former textile workshop, the walls of this quaint gallery are covered in variegated velvets and patterned silks that date back to the Meiji period (1868 - 1912). Detailing the history of kimono and yukata (an unlined summer kimono), Shiorian also offers the opportunity to buy your own.
*Free admission, groups require reservations*

[Old Textile Konjaku Nishimura](http://www.kobijutsu-kyoto.jp/english/memberslist/nishimura.html): Konjaku Nishimura is a small textile dealer tucked away on a picturesque cobblestone side street in Gion. Specializing in exquisite antique textiles, some which date back centuries to the Edo period (1600 - 1868), it’s a goldmine for seasoned collectors and casual treasure hunters alike.

[Hinodeya](https://hinodeya-kyoto.com/): A bright and airy shop that’s been in business since 1868, Hinodeya is known for its bespoke kimonos, but is also worth a visit for the charming selection of blouses, kidswear and accessories, as well as pottery from local artisans.

[Kyoto Museum of Crafts & Design](https://www.kyoto-museums.jp/en/museum/east/3754/): This museum is dedicated to the handicrafts of Kyoto, with over 70 types of crafts showcased, from nishijin-ori (traditional textiles produced in Kyoto’s Nishijin neighbourhood) to woodwork, arrows, and musical instruments.
*Admission ¥500*

[Ifu Kimono Rental](https://ifu-kyoto-kimono.com/): Located right above Arashiyama station by Kyoto’s famous bamboo forest is the kimono rental shop Ifu. “They have a big selection of a lot of different types of kimonos and a big selection of accessories as well that you can put with them,” says Cliffe. The surrounding bamboo forest, temples, and cafes make it an excellent place to go for a walk, too.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/26LKfPlQLwvPKMgN5qFGu0/f5a0abedcc45f344351916ca309eb4f0/4.5.25-Only_In_Kyoto_Kimono_body_3.png"/><figcaption>A kimono print's swirling fan motif,  courtesy of CHISO.</figcaption></figure>


4.5.25-Only In Kyoto Kimono HERO

4.5.25-Only In Kyoto Kimono INDEX

A canvas for Japanese craftsmanship, the kimono has been wrapping bodies for over a thousand years — experienced nowhere better than old-world Kyoto. 


The Endless, Exquisite Cuts of a Single Shape. || PRIOR

A canvas for Japanese craftsmanship, the kimono has been wrapping bodies for over a thousand years — experienced nowhere better than old-world Kyoto. 

The Endless, Exquisite Cuts of a Single Shape

The vintage fashion scene in [Tokyo](https://priorworld.com/editorial/shopping-through-tokyo) is as vast and layered as the city itself. After four years’ living and working in Japan’s capital, I’ve discovered that what sets its archival fashion boutiques apart from those in London or [Paris](https://priorworld.com/editorial/shop-like-a-parisian) is not just the variety but also the careful curation and exceptional condition of the pieces.

American workwear and Ivy League staples are treated with museum-level care, while decades-old Levi’s are meticulously graded and priced. This [dedication to quality](https://priorworld.com/editorial/the-endless-exquisite-cuts-of-a-single-shape) reflects the Japanese philosophy of mottainai, which is a commitment to minimizing waste. It helps explain why many items feel remarkably well-preserved.

The geography of Tokyo’s vintage scene is expansive. The Shibuya district is a must, filled with shops that range from minimalist boutiques to expansive resale warehouses. In contrast, nearby Setagaya City and its Shimokitazawa neighborhood offer a more local, treasure-hunting experience. Expect some quirks: Sizing often runs small, stock heavily skews toward Americana, and the best finds often require a bit of digging.

Whether you’re on the hunt for a holy grail piece, a memento of Tokyo fashion, or a cheap and cheerful souvenir, this guide is the perfect starting point.

<figure><img src="https://images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/7x2itWFT5XrmHtfEcA9qDC/6d7c70c16490aeead391378fa066a39e/4.4.26_Vintage_Stores_in_Tokyo_body_1.png" alt=""/><figcaption>Courtesy Archive Store</figcaption></figure>

### For the Serious Collector: [Archive Store](https://www.instagram.com/archivestore_official?igsh=MXJ0c3JjNHU4c3g1NQ==)

*1 Chome−12-16 Jinnan, Shibuya, Wako Building B1F*
*+81 3-5428-3787*

Hidden [underground](https://priorworld.com/editorial/toyko-dazzling-food-displays-just-below-the-beauty-counters), down an unassuming black staircase in central Shibuya, Archive Store is easy to miss if you don’t know what you’re looking for. Inside, you’ll find an impressive curation of serious designer vintage, from ’90s Maison Margiela to a great selection of Phoebe Philo-era Céline and Takahiro Miyashita’s Number (N)ine. With its under-lighting and gold rails, the space is almost laid out like a museum, presided over by Tatsuyuki Suzuki, the friendly collector who founded it in 2018.

<figure><img src="https://images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/1kDOhXCQbuc3PqfJZXTjWY/bfb29caa811161893d113a0a7d37c4da/4.4.26_Vintage_Stores_in_Tokyo_body_2.png" alt=""/><figcaption>Courtesy 10tow</figcaption></figure>

### For the Comme and Yohji Devotee: [10tow](https://www.instagram.com/10tow_?igsh=dnMxOGZlMzZmMng2)

*11−6 Udagawacho, Shibuya, KK Building 4F*
*+81 3-3464-4010*

A single room on the fourth floor of a gritty Shibuya tower block, 10tow is a well-kept secret among fans of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto. (My wife and I owe a significant part of our wardrobes to it.) The shop specializes in vintage casual clothing from both brands, along with pieces from labels like Dries van Noten, Issey Miyake, and Junya Watanabe. Surprisingly well-priced, it’s an ideal spot for those seeking a piece of Tokyo fashion without breaking the bank.

<figure><img src="https://images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5O1XyyE9WvAeKdosUWOooD/f113c54945b951c4bc5c108a269cd98d/4.4.26_Vintage_Stores_in_Tokyo_body_3.png" alt=""/><figcaption>Courtesy Ragtag</figcaption></figure>

### For the Curious Shopper: [Ragtag](https://www.ragtag.jp/english/shibuya.html?srsltid=AfmBOordlMWdlDSRE3huAOlPV_Ifv3LifEUOW4_YzWA4uYGPPrOX2c2g#/)

*1 Chome–17-7 Jinnan, Shibuya*
*+81 3-3476-6848*

For first-time visitors to Tokyo, Ragtag offers a reliable taste of the vintage shopping experience. Inside, you’ll find a well-organized selection of designer items, from Prada shades to more affordable high street vintage, along with domestic designers like Sacai and Undercover. While there are several Ragtag branches around the city, the Shibuya location features a particularly wide assortment of menswear, womenswear, and accessories spread across three floors. The womenswear section is especially diverse, making it a great place to find a statement dress or something party-ready.

<figure><img src="https://images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/1E7mUAbicYmdzJ6nIZGB9M/c7e3c50c75c254fe1faa8e7a0db2a58e/4.4.26_Vintage_Stores_in_Tokyo_body_4.png" alt=""/><figcaption>Courtesy Brackets</figcaption></figure>

### For the Antique Fashion Acolyte: [Brackets](https://www.instagram.com/brackets_setagaya/)

*1 Chome–10-6 Shimouma, Setagaya City*
*+81 3-6686-6725*

If vintage fashion younger than your grandparents won’t cut it, head to Brackets. Selling everything from Bulgarian military jackets to cargo pants and Gurkha shorts, the clothing here is mostly pre-1960s, making it a great place to find something truly unique. Brackets has two locations in Tokyo: one in central Shibuya and another in the residential neighborhood of Setagaya. The Setagaya store has a more local feel and tends to be slightly cheaper. Bonus points for the sound system, which plays British radio.

<figure><img src="https://images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/3cJZfxWS7tMyKmCMqJ3jy7/b16997beac7a3b680ac180dd0093623a/4.4.26_Vintage_Stores_in_Tokyo_body_5.png" alt=""/><figcaption>Courtesy New York Joe Exchange</figcaption></figure>

### For the Bargain Hunter: [New York Joe Exchange](https://www.instagram.com/newyorkjoeexchange/?hl=en)

*3 Chome−26-4 Kitazawa, Setagaya City*
*+81 3-5738-2077*

Shimokitazawa, Tokyo’s most boho neighborhood, is filled with vintage stores. New York Joe Exchange is sought out as the city’s closest thing to a US-style thrift store. Housed in a former public bathhouse, this expansive space features racks packed with a reasonably priced and constantly changing selection, including everything from timeless Levi’s to beaten-up novelty tees.

<figure><img src="https://images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/78QWx1LgQXbNakIU9YAaUr/a21e03de92471adbe7d5ff56f59acdb6/4.4.26_Vintage_Stores_in_Tokyo_body_6.png" alt=""/><figcaption>Courtesy BerBerJin</figcaption></figure>

### For Japanese Denim Hounds: [BerBerJin](https://www.instagram.com/berberjin_harajuku/?hl=en)

*3 Chome–26-11 Jingumae, Shibuya, Harajuku SH Building*
*+81 3-3401-4666*

Opened in 1998, BerBerJin is a Harajuku essential if you’re into denim. You’ll find racks of military gear, sweatshirts, and classic Americana, but the real action is downstairs in the basement that’s entirely dedicated to vintage denim. Levi’s are meticulously organized by era, from worn-in 501s to beautifully faded type II jackets and plenty of selvedge. Prices can be high, but they reflect the level of curation. The store even offers a starching service for a little less than $40.

<figure><img src="https://images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/3JWCVWFbcCoJ3yR1i7cSTO/20aa2f1f5db6868a3d9ce58b8c56f938/4.4.26_Vintage_Stores_in_Tokyo_body_7.png" alt=""/><figcaption>Courtesy PAT Market</figcaption></figure>

### For the Risk Taker: [Pat Market](https://www.instagram.com/pat_market_tokyo/)

*3 Chome–27-8 Jingumae, Shibuya*

Finding Pat Market is a real challenge, but the reward is worth it. Set back from the street in a maze of apartment blocks, it’s marked by a large “P” on a rusty sign and smoking youths loitering outside (who are actually shop staff and much friendlier than they look!). This edgy store is popular with Tokyo’s coolest Gen-Z dressers. Its two floors are packed with Japanese vintage labels that you’ll likely have to Google alongside a blend of Western brands, including a healthy amount of Diesel and Vivienne Westwood.

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The Must-Visit Vintage Shops of Tokyo - Index

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Inside Tokyo’s vintage scene: the stores to know for Margiela, Japanese denim, and hard-to-find pieces, from Shibuya basements to Shimokitazawa streets.

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The Must-Visit Vintage Stores of Tokyo

The year I moved to Japan, I experienced the seasons as many visitors do: cherry blossoms in Tokyo, summer festivals in Kyoto, and ski slopes in Nagano after the first snowfall. That prescripted version of the country—familiar stories, familiar places—was a start, but it left me restless and wanting to go deeper. The following winter, I boarded the bullet train for the opposite side of the country to the coastal town of Kanazawa, looking for something I hadn’t yet found. 

Japan doesn’t have four seasons—it has 72. In Kanazawa, I tasted them in the dim light of an izakaya, in a spiral turban snail shell served as a welcome dish, and in fermented mackerel and hot sake carried back to my hotel room. In this corner of Japan, home to some of the nation’s freshest seafood, the ocean seems to wash over every dinner table, leaving behind whatever shells and scaly creatures are most abundant. 

Japan’s microseasons stem from an ancient calendar that divides the year into five-day intervals, each marked by subtle shifts in climate: “Fish Emerge Through Thinning Ice” in February, for instance, or “Salmon Gather Back Home” in December. Along Kanazawa’s coastline, those changes are visible at the market, where certain species of crab signal winter and firefly squid announce the arrival of spring. In an era when seafood has largely become unmoored from season, locals here spend more per capita on it than anywhere else in Japan—a way of staying attuned to the sea, the weather, and the passage of time. 

By the time I reached Omicho Market, it was still dark, snow falling hard enough to muffle my footsteps. I had set my alarm for 4:45 a.m., trudging through drifts to arrive in time for the morning fish auctions. Just past the entrance, workers were hoisting styrofoam boxes of live eels from turret trucks as fishermen and restaurant owners worked side by side, steam rising from their breath in the cold. 

By 9 a.m., the trucks had long since unloaded their wares, and it felt as though the day was ending, not beginning. I took a seat at a narrow counter inside the market and ate a seafood rice bowl piled with shredded crab, glistening roe, and vermilion slices of tuna, my gloves still thawing. Even then, I knew I’d return to see how the other seasons revealed themselves.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/7JNm7OVvfHmCsYOKaJphMr/7c93db08e0cf87b8a89c8d2507380b2a/1.27.25_Kanazawa_body_1.png" alt=""/><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

### Winter

Winters in Kanazawa are severe enough that even the trees require protection. The pines surrounding Kanazawa Castle are bound in yukitsuri ropework—intricate cone-shaped harnesses designed to shield from wet, heavy snowfall. Between the Sai and Asanogawa Rivers, the castle once anchored the city’s political life. Nearby, Omicho Market was established in 1721 to provision the ruling clan.

By winter, the market—those narrow aisles I’d walked before dawn—is no longer a rainbow of late-season produce. Cucumbers give way to bone-white daikon radishes, and shoppers in padded jackets press through the crowded passages. Quiet flurries outside heighten the contrasting bustle within, where stacks of female snow crab, or kano-gani, glow pink and red under fluorescent lights. Vendors extend toothpicks topped with sliced octopus or squares of tuna, gesturing toward prices scrawled in thick black marker on cardboard signs.

Crab fishing here is tightly [regulated](https://kanazawa-uminosachi.jp/en/kanazawa-crab/) and limited to the colder months. As demand has climbed and supply has dwindled, strict quotas now govern what can be caught and when. During peak season, Omicho fills with buyers of every stripe—home cooks, chefs, and visitors—passing cash hand to hand as crabs are wrapped in paper and tucked into canvas bags.

What justifies the price of kano-gani, which can climb past $200 per meal, becomes clear once it’s opened. Beneath the glossy shell, firm white strands of meat unfurl like fern fronds, intensely sweet and deeply concentrated. Females are especially prized for their rich eggs, glistening like caramel pearls. At Michelin-starred [Zeniya](https://zeniya.co.jp/), chefs wrap the roe in nori with white rice and finish it with a scattering of shredded meat. Winter yellowtail—kanburi—also appears, valued for its marbled flesh and velvety texture. Each morning, chef Shinichiro Takagi visits Omicho Market himself, serving the season’s catch on locally made lacquerware.

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5XYBrmFBnMWUshzhTb1qpw/53d6f76d735e09d77f0716df731e7ad4/1.27.25_Kanazawa_body_2.png" alt=""/><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

### Spring
“A beautiful river flows, and by its banks I will live,” wrote Kanazawa poet Murō Saisei of the Sai River. Each spring, the city seems to perform that line as locals gather along the water to picnic beneath drifting clouds of cherry blossoms. This ritual of hanami—literally, flower viewing—is a communal effort to savor the brief moment before the petals fall and the season turns.

Sitting beneath the trees, sipping sakura-flavored tea and eating pink mochi wrapped in pickled cherry leaves, I begin to understand that hanami is not only visual. The blossoms themselves are edible, preserved salty or sweet and worked into seasonal foods. In Kanazawa Castle Park, home to more than 400 cherry trees, families spread blankets and open bento boxes filled with spring fare, including sweet shrimp, or amaebi. Creamy and finger-size, their pale pink color mirrors the blossoms overhead.

As daylight fades and the chill lingers, meals move indoors. Among the season’s rarest offerings is gasuebi, known locally as “phantom shrimp,” served raw or lightly fried. Found only in Kanazawa and available for a few short months, it is prized for its deep sweetness. (The annual catch is roughly one-eighth of amaebi.) While sweet shrimp appears in casual settings, gasuebi is reserved for more formal meals. At Sushi Takamori, the chef makes a point of sourcing the phantom shrimp each spring.

Even so, spring here is best tasted outdoors. Firefly squid—hotaruika—appear pickled in sake, soy sauce, and mirin, their magenta bodies catching the soft, dappled light. In Kanazawa, meals like this seem to end almost as soon as they begin, the season already turning. 

<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/bFSfXWvGPQfOubyyD6R5c/835cd10224df7fdb32df680ad34a9eab/1.27.25_Kanazawa_body_3.png" alt=""/><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

### Summer

In June, Kanazawa spills into the streets for a [three-day ](https://100mangoku.net/)festival marking the city’s founding in 1583. More than 2,000 residents parade through the streets in samurai costumes as couples in summer kimonos, or yukata, dance to the trill of bamboo flutes. Come nightfall, 1,200 lanterns drift down the Asanogawa River in tribute to the [ancestors](https://y.sapporobeer.jp/travel/2022051201/) who established the city’s fabric-dyeing traditions, while families gather at food stalls that line the streets in rows of red and yellow tarps.

The humidity makes cold, salty rock oysters called iwagaki one of the festival’s most anticipated dishes. Harvested from the nearby Noto Peninsula and larger than two fists combined, they take up to five years to mature. Shucked on the spot and eaten on the half-shell with lemon, vinegar, soy sauce, or a dash of Tabasco, their richness has earned them the nickname “milk from the sea.” Outside the festival, oyster restaurants like [Kaki Mania](https://www.instagram.com/kakimania.noto/) keep the ritual going all summer, grilling and shucking along the street as crowds drift past.

Kanazawa’s culture of kaiseki, a traditional multi-course dinner defined by seasonal ingredients and intricate presentations, offers a calmer counterpoint to the loud, communal festivities. Hamo, or pike eel, is the season’s specialty, prized for its [restorative qualities](https://syunsai-kura.jp/2012/06/10231656.html) during the dog days of summer. Hundreds of pin bones require chefs to make dozens of precise cuts. Once cooked, the meat opens into soft folds and is light and almost fluffy on the tongue. At [Haneya](https://haneya.jp/seasonalmenu), chef Toshiyuki Maeda gently steams the eel and finishes it with a syrupy nitsume glaze of soy, mirin, sake, and sugar balanced with myoga ginger, shiso, and lime—cooling flavors for the height of summer.
<figure><img src="//images.ctfassets.net/6alb7q886wpg/5AJkJhajljgTdK1IbQ3eSl/29d5b55fa438f5ec9b38072e6cf39ad9/1.27.25_Kanazawa_body_4.png" alt=""/><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

### Autumn

As summer’s cicadas fade, Kanazawa’s waterways begin to stir with jumping fish. Silver-skinned sanma (Pacific saury) signals the start of autumn as it appears on dinner tables across the region. Written in Japanese, its characters mean “autumn sword fish,” a nod to its katana-like shape and the way its body slices through the air as it migrates south to spawn.

Sanma is an everyday staple, explains Kanazawa-based tour guide Yuri Murae. It’s often grilled whole and served with a generous sprinkle of salt and a mound of grated daikon. Prized for its fatty richness and clean finish, it’s abundant and affordable thanks to the city’s proximity to the fish’s migration routes. Sanma is a popular teishoku, or simple set meal, which, at the casual restaurant [Darumaya](https://www.instagram.com/daru_maya/?hl=ja), comes with crackly grill marks across its slender fillets. 

If sanma defines autumn as an everyday pleasure, nodoguro occupies the opposite end of the spectrum. The blackthroat seaperch is scarcer, line-caught, and highly prized in Kanazawa, appearing just as temperatures drop and spawning season begins. At [Kappo Takeshi](https://kappoutakeshi.owst.jp/), a seafood restaurant on the banks of the Sai River, the fish’s candy-orange flesh comes as sashimi or saikyo-style, marinated overnight in white miso and caramelized on the grill. Shizuo Tsuji, founder of the Tsuji Culinary Institute, once wrote of Japanese cuisine, “Every dish shares a single basic but all-important requirement: unstinting freshness.” At Kappo Takeshi, the menu is handwritten each morning in an ever-changing calibration with what the season has provided.


1.27.25 Kanazawa HERO

1.27.25 Kanazawa INDEX

In the Japanese city of Kanazawa, the passage of time is felt through the ocean’s bounty, with dishes coming and going like the tide.


Japan

Explore Japan

The Endless, Exquisite Cuts of a Single Shape

The Must-Visit Vintage Stores of Tokyo

Where Seafood Marks the Season

Oh... and also

Visit a sumo stable to watch their morning practice, where you’ll witness the rituals of this ancient tradition that remains Japan’s national sport.

Apprentice with an expert in the art of ki-oke (wooden buckets), which were historically used for baths and food storage–and are now used for everything from dog beds to champagne coolers to stools.

Stay in a traditional machiya townhouse, indicative of Kyoto’s architectural landscape prior to Japan's rapid modernization after the 1950’s.

Japan